
Overview
Portuguese designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida founded their London-based label in 2011 after meeting at Central Saint Martins. The house rose to prominence through a radical reinterpretation of denim, using raw edges and experimental washes to elevate the utility fabric into high fashion. Receiving the LVMH Prize in 2015 solidified its standing as a leader of the city's design talent, transitioning the brand from a subcultural niche to an international reference.
The label is noted for its ability to channel the energy of youth culture into a sophisticated ready-to-wear context. The label works across ready-to-wear and denim. Recurring signatures include denim, raw edges, and experimental washes. By referencing 1990s club scenes and street-derived aesthetics, it has built a distinct identity that challenges traditional luxury codes. Its importance lies in the marriage of high-level construction with a deliberate sense of imperfection, offering a contemporary take on femininity that is both gritty and refined.
Philosophy
Deliberate raw finishes define the creative language of the house, where fraying and abrasion are used as purposeful design tools. This approach questions the necessity of traditional polish, instead finding character in the texture and movement of unfinished edges. Denim remains the primary medium, serving as a canvas for complex draping and structural experiments that distort proportions in a controlled manner.
Design decisions focus on the tension between softness and weight, pairing heavy treated cottons with fluid silks or delicate knits. There is a recurring interest in the way clothes are lived in, leading to asymmetrical cuts and unexpected layering that suggest a sense of spontaneous dressing. Colour is applied with similar boldness, often featuring neon accents or saturated washes that reinforce the brand’s connection to urban subcultures and the expressive potential of material manipulation. Material choice and construction are treated as part of the argument, not as secondary finishing touches.
Disclaimer
Creative history
2011
2011
2011
2011
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