New Object Research

New Object Research is Aitor Throup’s research-led fashion label, publicly developed from 2012 after earlier limited trouser releases. The project gave a distinct structure to his study of garment archetypes, sculptural pattern cutting and prototype-led production. Its first complete line was presented in 2013, bringing together objects and clothing developed through four narrative projects, including the Shiva Skull Bag, Veil Jacket and forms derived from his early graduate work.

The label did not follow a stable seasonal calendar. Pieces were released selectively through stores including Dover Street Market, while prototypes remained central to the public presentation of the work. In June 2016, The Rite of Spring / Summer / Autumn / Winter placed trans-seasonal garments on life-size puppets at One Marylebone. The figures, created with puppet designer James Perowne, made movement, memory and the designer’s own archive part of the collection’s physical staging.

A fully commercial collection was announced for January 2017, but no reliable evidence confirms that it reached release. New Object Research’s last documented major activity remains the 2016 presentation and its subsequent Dover Street Market installation.

New Object Research treats clothing as an object whose structure must be earned. The label’s garments begin with archetypes—trousers, jackets, bags, masks—and revise them through anatomical construction, integrated components and recurring narrative systems. Throup’s term “object research” describes a process in which the garment is examined as a complete physical proposition rather than as a seasonal carrier for styling or surface novelty.

Prototypes are not hidden preliminary stages. They remain visible within the project, preserving joins, revisions and unusual methods of assembly. The 2016 puppet presentation extended this principle into display: clothing was activated by articulated figures rather than conventional models, allowing the body, garment and support structure to move as one system. The trans-seasonal title also refused the expectation that a collection must belong cleanly to one commercial quarter.

The label’s vocabulary includes extended trouser forms, veils, skull-derived objects, articulated outerwear and garments shaped around fictional bodies. These motifs recur because the project builds by revision. Earlier ideas are treated as material for another stage of construction, giving New Object Research the continuity of a long experiment rather than a sequence of disconnected themes.