Overview
Y’s is the ready-to-wear brand Yohji Yamamoto founded in Tokyo in April 1972. It began with clothing for working women, using masculine coats, practical construction and a looser relation between fabric and the body. A bounded public show took place at Bell Commons in Aoyama in May 1977, while the first house-claimed Paris presentation dates to 2002; incomplete season and venue evidence keeps both outside the finished collection record.
Y’s for men began in 1979 as clothing for the man beside a woman wearing Y’s. It was suspended from Spring/Summer 2010 and revived for Autumn/Winter 2023–24. The wider brand also developed delegated lines including Y’s Red Label, Y’s BANG ON!, RISMAT by Y’s, Takeshi Kosaka by Y’s Pink Label and KAYO NAKAMURA by Y’s.
From Autumn/Winter 2012–13, public collection authorship shifted to the Y’s atelier team inheriting the founder’s principles. Risa Matsushima was documented as chief creator from 2012, but her status after 2018 has not been established. Y’s remains active and institutionally connected to Yohji Yamamoto Inc.; founder history does not by itself assign every current season to Yamamoto personally.
Philosophy
Y’s treats clothing as equipment for daily life. Coats, trousers, shirting and layered dresses use relaxed structure, asymmetric balance and space around the body, allowing a wearer to move without being fixed to a decorative or conventionally feminine outline. The original proposition addressed working women through usefulness and masculine construction rather than through a separate office uniform.
Patternmaking carries much of the brand’s authorship. The atelier develops proportion, drape, fastening and repeated garment types across seasons, preserving continuity through method instead of copying an archive look. This collective system explains why the current line can remain recognisably Y’s without a publicly named successor to its founder.
Delegated programmes make individual responsibilities visible within that structure. Y’s Red Label, RISMAT, the Pink Label chronology and KAYO NAKAMURA by Y’s assign bounded work to named designers, while Y’s BANG ON! converts familiar forms into a numbered, seasonless unisex product system.
Timeline
Disclaimer
Creative timeline
Button TextYohji Yamamoto founded Y’s in Tokyo in April 1972 as a ready-to-wear business built from his mother’s dressmaking practice, early atelier labour and national wholesale sales. The foundation belongs to Y’s, distinct from its first public show and the later eponymous Paris line.
Y’s divisions and related structures
Y’s combines its atelier-authored main line with a revived menswear programme and several delegated or seasonless structures. The distinctions identify bounded design responsibility without turning every label into an autonomous brand.
Core and historical lines
- Y’s for men
- Menswear line founded in 1979, suspended in 2010 and revived for Autumn/Winter 2023–24
- The line predates Pour Homme and developed from the proposition of clothing for the man beside a woman wearing Y’s. Its current day-to-day design leader is not public.
- Y’s Red Label
- Historical delegated line under Michiko Suzuki
- Developed from an experimental 2006–07 project and presented from Spring/Summer 2008; Autumn/Winter 2009–10 is the last securely recovered season, not a proven finale.
Atelier and product programmes
- Y’s BANG ON!
- Seasonless numbered unisex programme
- Recurring numbered garments translate familiar Y’s forms into a repeatable, size-flexible product system. Public continuity after Autumn/Winter 2022–23 remains unclear.
- RISMAT by Y’s
- Named atelier line led by Risa Matsushima from Spring/Summer 2014
- RISMAT gave Matsushima a bounded design voice inside the wider team-authored Y’s structure.
- Takeshi Kosaka by Y’s Pink Label
- Named delegated line from Spring/Summer 2014
- The line followed Kosaka’s work across Y’s for men, Homme and Y’s and continued the earlier Y’s Pink Label mandate.
- KAYO NAKAMURA by Y’s
- Footwear, bags and accessories line active from about Autumn/Winter 2014–15
- The programme gives Kayo Nakamura bounded accessories authorship; her exact employment title and current status remain undocumented.
Y’s collaborations
Y’s collaborations are recorded where they extended the brand’s product or image system with a defined external author. Routine capsules remain outside this summary.
Design and image
- Jean Nouvel Design
- Furniture project for Paris Design Week, 2015
- The project translated Y’s garment thinking into furniture as a bounded design and exhibition collaboration.
- Max Vadukul
- Recurring Y’s photography, including the 2023–26 image cycle
- Vadukul’s recent seasonal work continued a longer relationship with the wider house while retaining photography as a separate authorship.
