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About this collection

Mending and tying things together again gave Autumn/Winter 2023 a plainspoken emotional and material charge. Repair appeared as action rather than decoration: knotting, binding, holding and reconnecting became ways to think through clothing. Kawakubo’s mainline has long treated construction as argument, and here the argument felt almost tender without becoming sentimental. The season drew strength from practical gestures loaded with feeling, as if every tie or join carried the wish to keep fragile things from coming apart. That modest gesture gives the collection its force.

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