Comme des Garçons

My Present State of Mind Rather Than a Theme gave Spring/Summer 2022 an unusually direct proposition. Kawakubo refused the expectation of a tidy seasonal concept and placed feeling, immediacy and resistance at the centre instead. That refusal suited the Tokyo-origin presentation, where reduced format and emotional pressure were already part of the work. The collection stands out because it does not explain itself through a story; it lets form carry mood, uncertainty and refusal. Among recent mainline seasons, it remains one of the clearest statements of anti-theme thinking.