KIDILL

HEAVEN removed much of the theatrical staging associated with earlier KIDILL shows and concentrated attention on contradiction inside the garments. Smoky colour, black silicone distressing, tartan, tulle and Trevor Brown’s angelic and demonic imagery joined childlike and severe elements without resolving them into a stable utopia.

An Alpha Industries MA-1 was covered with soft black tulle and reconstructed with HIZUME into a sculptural headpiece. UMBRO developed garments with more than forty adjustment points, allowing hoods, panels and proportions to be continually reshaped; the collection turned collaboration into a technical architecture rather than an applied graphic layer.