Rick Owens

Moog sits in the early Paris womenswear period, when Owens’s dirt-toned cult language was becoming a complete look rather than a set of separates. The collection centred on pilled and felted surfaces, shearling, leather and velvet, with trailing skirts, cropped gilets and solid-heeled boots giving the body a severe vertical line. Its importance lies in how clearly it codifies the rough, club-like severity later used as shorthand for early Rick Owens.