Rick Owens

Dustulator AW 2006 womenswear is an early collection where protection becomes silhouette rather than outerwear alone. Wool felt, cashmere, fur, linen and washed leather shape puffer shells, cropped trousers and body-framing jackets, giving the figure a wrapped and insulated outline. It extends the early Owens vocabulary of leather, jersey and severe layering into a more explicitly defensive form, setting up later cocoon and shell codes without turning the clothes into literal costume.