Rick Owens

Gleam AW 2010 turns discipline into a form of glamour. Down wraps, biker leathers and fur are worked into asymmetrical layers, zigzag leg lines and nun-like severity, keeping the jacket system central while making the image more polished. The collection sits between Release’s move toward sumptuousness and the stricter control of Anthem and Limo. Its strength is the way it makes austerity decorative without losing the wrapped, protective structure that anchors Owens womenswear.