Rick Owens

Limo AW 2011 sharpens Owens womenswear into a ceremonial procession of purity, proportion and covered glamour. Gloves, layered taupes and greys, wrapped heads, capes and floor-length skirts make the body look elongated, protected and almost holy-order strict. The old Hollywood reference is filtered through monastic discipline rather than surface nostalgia. It is an important step in the early 2010s control phase, where drape becomes more vertical and the runway body becomes increasingly formal, wrapped and processional.