Rick Owens

Plinth AW 2013 womenswear reworks Owens’s house basics into a more heroic register. Coats, boots and T-shirts become oversized markers rather than simple wardrobe staples, while steam and a bunker-like atmosphere push the show toward battle-scarred drama. The silhouette depends on big coats, big boots, big T-shirts and halo hair, making familiar Owens pieces read as protective and ceremonial. It is not a break from the house vocabulary so much as a re-scaling of its core uniform into something heavier, tougher and more explicit.