Rick Owens

Moody AW 2014 menswear pulls Owens’s architectural body toward authority and spiritual uniform. Duchesse satin, black leather, cashmere and heavy silk support flak-vest shapes, tunics, shorts, wader-like boots and leather hybrid shifts. Shown at the Palais de Chaillot, the collection uses police, holster, Tom of Finland and religious-authority references without turning them into costume. Its strength is the tension between control, sensuality and ritualised uniform. It remains garment-led, even when the reference field is unusually charged.