Rick Owens

Mastodon AW 2016 womenswear converts environmental dread into sheltering, end-stage volume. Pony skin, leather, mohair and velvet appear through pod dresses, cocoon puffers and exaggerated legs, making protection feel flamboyant rather than merely defensive. The collection’s climate-change and extinction frame is visible through shape: swollen shells, insulated bodies and mirrored, almost Dalí-like distortion. It continues Owens’s concern with protection and threat, but with a softer, more creaturely surface than the harder body-politics rows around it.