Rick Owens

Sisyphus AW 2018 womenswear addresses sexual politics through shape, texture and physical confidence rather than direct slogan. Pilled blanket camel hair, down and wool become bustles, panniers and thickened torsos, giving the body comic weight and defensive presence. Arte Povera references help keep the materials deliberately poor or roughened, while the Time’s Up and #MeToo context sits behind the collection’s refusal of fragile femininity. The result is not topical dressing, but a study of pressure, absurdity and stubborn bodily assertion.