Rick Owens

Performa AW 2020 womenswear sits just before the digital-pandemic turn and combines play with exaggerated product scale. Leather, pilled knits, recycled plastic and puffer shells support huge shoulders, sleeping-bag capes, asymmetrical dresses and giant platforms. Smoke at the Palais de Tokyo gives the show a heavy atmosphere, while Gary Numan and Bowie/Kansai echoes keep the reference world theatrical rather than nostalgic. The collection is useful as a hinge: it intensifies monster product and stage presence before format itself becomes the main question.