Rick Owens

Strobe pulls Owens’s recent appetite for aggression into a more solemn and formal register. Presented as live runway womenswear, it uses dusty sequins, evening fabrics, asymmetrical volumes and collapsing backs to turn beauty into a kind of faith under pressure. The collection’s mood is shaped by war-time heartbreak rather than spectacle for its own sake. Its silhouettes retain Owens’s distortions, but the effect is quieter: bodies seem draped, weighted and partially undone, held between ceremony, grief and discipline.