Rick Owens

Porterville turns Owens’s autobiography into venue, casting and garment structure. Shown in the house compound rather than at the usual monumental scale, the collection links childhood hostility, escape and self-invention to protective clothes made from recycled cashmere, felted alpaca, tyre rubber, loden and cracked megacrust denim. The silhouettes include weird-but-noble spacesuits, inflated boots and mantles, with subcultural collaborators helping shift the body language away from standard runway polish. It is one of the clearest late examples of place becoming collection form.