Rick Owens

Tungsten keeps the early leather-and-drape grammar but makes it sharper and more exposed. Washed leather, silk, pleated net, georgette and chiffon build tied jackets, bias gowns and surfaces where the inner construction remains visible. The mood is less dour than the preceding dirt-toned seasons, with softened military cues and a thirties slant giving rough materials a more precise, transparent shape. It also points toward the later tension between exposure and disciplined construction.