Rick Owens

Anthem turns Rick Owens menswear toward a more explicitly monastic and architectural body language. Long coats, asymmetrical tops, softened leather and breastplate-like jackets make the male silhouette feel lengthened, disciplined and protective rather than simply layered. The collection is one of the clearest early-2010s examples for reading Owens’s menswear as vertical structure: severe, ceremonial and built around the tension between exposed limbs and armoured surfaces. It gives later menswear codes a firmer base.