Rick Owens

Naska is one of the key early menswear collections because it mutates the suit into a layered body system rather than a conventional tailoring proposal. Seersucker, raw silk and shantung support four-piece suits, tunics, skirted layers, apron wraps and tank-dress forms. The collection makes Owens’s menswear language especially legible: formal dress is stretched into ceremony, skirt systems and vertical architecture without leaving the language of tailoring behind. It is precise, strange and unusually useful for understanding his menswear grammar.