Rick Owens

Island lightens the early-2010s menswear architecture after the heavier Anthem, Naska and Mountain sequence. Sheer nylon, handkerchief linen and leather patches appear in skorts, suits, sleeveless tops, sheer jackets and shimmering robe-like layers. The collection keeps Owens’s lengthened male body but trims it with more air, shine and exposed surface. Its place in the chronology is less about spectacle than about loosening the protected architectural menswear frame. The result is architectural menswear made less enclosed and more porous.