Rick Owens

Walrus SS 2017 menswear redesigns proportion through drape, compression and expanded trouser volume. Gazar and duchesse satin support pooling wide trousers, tight short jackets, elevated rib-cage effects and sleeves that seem to drip from the body. The collection is less about simple oversizing than about moving the male centre of gravity: hips, waist, shoulders and hemline all feel displaced. Madame Grès-style drapery sits behind the effect, but the result remains physical, odd and sharply engineered.