Rick Owens

Walrus SS 2017 womenswear shifts Owens’s volume into an askew, almost buoyant construction language. Linen tulle, buckram, horsehair and fur support sideways vests, futuristic life-jacket torsos and off-centre drape rather than solemn monumentality. The show’s spiral descent at the Palais de Tokyo turns the body into something slightly displaced, with decline reframed less as collapse than as a portal. It is a useful mid-2010s collection because it loosens severity while keeping the body under strict formal pressure.