Rick Owens
•
Phlegethon
•
SS
2021
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About this collection
Phlegethon moves the womenswear chronology into the Venice Lido cycle, where the show format becomes part of the collection’s meaning. Presented as a digital beach ceremony, it uses masks, tactical leather, sheer layers and exaggerated shoulders to translate restriction into silhouette. The clothes sit between protection and exposure: beach bustles, covered faces and sharpened upper bodies make the body look prepared, watched and ceremonial. Rather than treating the pandemic setting as a backdrop, the collection folds distance, filmed presentation and grim resilience into the runway language itself.