Rick Owens

Lido brings a brighter affect into Owens’s womenswear without loosening the discipline of the silhouette. Habotai silk, organza, leather, denim and acetate crepe support strict long waists, distorted shoulders and sail-like robes. The collection reflects on hope after war, with Björk and Diana Ross references shifting the emotional register away from pure threat. It is important not to confuse this title with the earlier Venice Lido digital presentations: here, Lido becomes memory, colour and posture inside a live Paris runway structure.