Rick Owens

Temple distils long-running Owens codes under the pressure of retrospective attention without turning the runway into a museum summary. Sheer layers, star-chart print, fringed leather and platforms appear through draped dresses, geometric seams and a black-eye procession. The staging uses bleachers and fountain crossing to keep the show physical and public, while the references to parental memory and late-career tenacity give the collection a personal charge. It should remain separate from the retrospective context: this is the runway collection, not the exhibition.