Thom Browne

Thom Browne’s first full menswear runway collection transferred the proportions of his appointment-only grey suits into a public fashion-week setting. Cropped trousers, abbreviated jackets, exposed ankles and shortened sleeves established the house uniform as a complete ready-to-wear proposition rather than a private tailoring experiment. The presentation also opened the runway as a space in which Browne could test repetition, discipline and theatrical control.