Guram Gvasalia’s first physical Vetements runway as creative director occupied the raw shell of the former Tati store in Pigalle. He framed Spring/Summer 2023 through childhood, displacement and queer identity, translating personal memories into garments including a damaged-looking teddy-bear bomber, a red plaid poncho recalling refugee-camp blankets and checks tied to Tati shopping bags.

The collection gave Guram’s formal tenure an autobiographical centre while retaining Vetements’ established use of oversized clothing, familiar commercial signs and socially coded wardrobe pieces. His account of the show as a public coming-out moment connected personal identity to the house’s long-standing interest in clothing as a marker of belonging, status and memory.