
Overview
Burberry began in Basingstoke in 1856, when Thomas Burberry entered business by taking over an existing drapery premises. The company developed through sporting clothes, weatherproof outerwear and London expansion rather than through one clean invention narrative. The strongest recovered legal evidence for gabardine is an 1897 patent naming Burberry and Frederic Daniel Unwin as joint inventors. Expedition use, military manufacture and the Tielocken helped establish a practical outerwear system from which the trench coat emerged, but neither gabardine nor the trench can be reduced securely to a single date or sole author.
The business incorporated as Burberrys Limited in 1920, used its check as rainwear lining during the 1920s and moved the pattern onto accessories from the late 1960s. Under GUS ownership from 1955, direct manufacturing, international retail and extensive regional licences enlarged the name while dispersing design and product authority across Britain, Japan, Spain and specialist partners. Rose Marie Bravo’s 1997 appointment began a coordinated luxury repositioning. Roberto Menichetti launched Burberry Prorsum in 1998; Christopher Bailey subsequently centralised the house’s collections, campaigns, stores and digital presentation; Riccardo Tisci redirected the unified label through a new identity and broader wardrobe; and Daniel Lee has led all collections since October 2022.
Today Burberry operates one principal public label across ready-to-wear, outerwear, leather goods, accessories and childrenswear, with Beauty and eyewear run through specialist licence structures. Its history also contains discontinued global lines, regional sub-brands and product divisions that cannot be treated as one continuous London-designed collection. The house remains based in Britain, with Castleford as a central trench-making site, while design, manufacturing, media and retail are distributed across internal teams and external collaborators.
Philosophy
Protection is Burberry’s most durable design premise. Dense woven cloth, layered closures, storm flaps, belts, collars and adaptable linings begin with weather and movement rather than ornament alone. Gabardine and the trench supplied a technical vocabulary that later designers could enlarge, soften, decorate or destabilise without losing the garment’s relation to use.
The house’s public codes work through repetition and reassignment. Check moved from lining to scarf, accessory, runway surface and licensed product; the Equestrian Knight has shifted between corporate seal, trim and principal emblem; Britishness has been constructed through military dress, rural sport, music, photography, youth culture and city life. These elements are not static heritage props: their meaning changes with scale, colour, material and the people commissioned to interpret them.
Burberry’s modern authorship is institutional as much as individual. Creative chiefs set collection and image direction, but regional design teams, product developers, licence partners, photographers, graphic designers, artists, musicians, factories and suppliers retain their own work. The most convincing periods of the house connect outerwear construction, commercial product, campaign language and public presentation while keeping those responsibilities legible.
Timeline


Disclaimer
Creative timeline
Button TextBurberry presented Winter 2025 at Tate Britain alongside a one-year conservation partnership with the institution. The relationship extended the Lee-era collection environment into institutional support while keeping Tate’s role, the runway presentation and the clothes as distinct authored records.
After becoming Chief Executive on 17 July 2024, Joshua Schulman announced Burberry Forward on 14 November. The recovery mandate narrowed product, pricing, distribution and communication priorities around outerwear, scarves and recognisable house codes while Daniel Lee remained Chief Creative Officer.
Burberry Classics launched in March 2024 as an ongoing assortment of trench coats, outerwear, shirting, knitwear, tailoring and accessories under Daniel Lee. Its recurring core function supports a product-system record, but not an independent brand or revival of the former three-line hierarchy.
Burberry announced a Winter 2023 footwear collaboration with Tricker’s on 30 October 2023. Burberry supplied the design and the Northampton shoemaker supplied specialist manufacture, demonstrating category collaboration without turning Tricker’s into a division or assigning factory authorship to Lee.
Burberry completed the acquisition of its Italian technical-outerwear supplier Pattern on 2 October 2023. The transaction brought specialist development and production capability closer to the house at a moment when Lee’s collections were reasserting outerwear as a principal design and commercial category.
Drew Henry joined Burberry under Daniel Lee in 2023 as Senior Design Director after senior roles at JW Anderson and Phoebe Philo. The studio position preceded his May 2026 start as Courrèges Artistic Director and does not transfer individual authorship of Burberry collections away from the house’s credited creative system.
Burberry introduced Lee’s first public creative expression on 6 February 2023 through Tyrone Lebon’s campaign imagery, John Glacier’s score, a new wordmark and a refreshed Equestrian Knight. The event established the identity before Winter 2023, which remains the separate first designed collection.
Daniel Lee began as Burberry Chief Creative Officer on 3 October 2022 with authority over all collections. His tenure has reworked trench construction, check, equestrian symbols and British cultural reference through stronger colour, tactile material and a more concentrated product system.
Burberry announced Riccardo Tisci’s departure on 28 September 2022, two days after his final runway presentation. His employment ended at the end of September; later retail delivery of Spring/Summer 2023 did not extend his operative creative tenure.
Burberry unveiled a new wordmark and Thomas Burberry monogram on 2 August 2018. Tisci commissioned and directed the programme; Peter Saville supplied the evidenced graphic-design and art-direction authorship. The change altered public hierarchy without abolishing the Equestrian Knight as a trademark.
Burberry announced the acquisition of an Italian leather-goods business on 14 May 2018. The move added durable internal sampling and production capability for a category central to the Gobbetti–Tisci luxury strategy, while supplier and specialist manufacturing relationships continued around it.
Riccardo Tisci became Burberry Chief Creative Officer on 12 March 2018 with responsibility for all collections and the wider brand image. He inherited the unified label and redirected it through a new identity, expanded category language, collaboration capsules and plural campaign authorship.
Burberry announced Christopher Bailey’s staged departure on 31 October 2017. His final collection remains a separate Collections record; Riccardo Tisci assumed creative authority on 12 March 2018, Bailey left the board on 31 March, and his advisory employment ended on 31 December.
When Marco Gobbetti became Chief Executive on 5 July 2017, Bailey moved to President and Chief Creative Officer. Commercial, operating and financial control passed to Gobbetti, while Bailey retained primary brand and design authority within a shared strategy and people structure.
Burberry announced a two-show mixed-gender system on 5 February 2016, replacing separate future-season presentations with February and September Collections coordinated for immediate defined availability. The change altered design, production, merchandising, campaign and store deadlines, although not every runway item reached every market at once.
Christopher Bailey became Chief Creative and Chief Executive Officer on 1 May 2014. The combined office joined collection and image accountability to management, strategy and board duties, a genuine expansion of authority that should not be projected backwards over his earlier design roles.
The Regent Street flagship opened in September 2012 as a physical expression of Burberry World, joining retail, broadcast, digital content and live music. Bailey led the creative proposition, while architects, craftspeople, technology teams and contractors retained the building’s technical authorship.
Burberry promoted Christopher Bailey to Chief Creative Officer on 11 November 2009. The role formalised brand-wide responsibility for collections, advertising, multimedia, stores and the consumer-facing image at the moment Burberry was linking runway presentation to digital distribution and retail.
<p>Burberry released its Vivienne Westwood collaboration on 6 December 2018 under Riccardo Tisci, with Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler contributing to the design. The capsule reworked British classics and Westwood archive forms, with proceeds supporting Cool Earth.</p>
Across the 2006/07 to 2008/09 financial years, Burberry centralised product design, stores and creative media in London. The phased reorganisation reduced regional duplication and made collections, campaigns and digital presentation more coherent, while specialist licences and manufacturing partners retained their category responsibilities.
Angela Ahrendts became Chief Executive on 1 July 2006. Her tenure integrated regional operations, retail, digital investment and non-apparel growth while consolidating consumer-facing design and image in London under Christopher Bailey; the partnership joined executive scale to a distinct creative authority.
Luxottica’s Burberry eyewear licence became effective on 1 January 2006, covering specialist design, production and worldwide distribution of optical frames and sunglasses under Burberry’s creative and brand oversight. EssilorLuxottica renewed the continuing relationship in December 2025 through 31 December 2035.
Christopher Bailey was publicly titled Creative Director by 14 February 2004, marking a broader remit than his initial Prorsum-focused appointment. His authority expanded across the global collection system and increasingly connected product, campaign, store and visual identity, without absorbing regional and licensed authorship.
Burberry entered the London Stock Exchange on 18 July 2002 through a partial initial public offering. GUS retained 77.5 per cent and contractual governance rights, so the listing introduced minority public ownership and new capital without making Burberry independent before the 2005 demerger.
Burberry announced Christopher Bailey’s appointment on 9 May 2001 and dates his operational start to that month. His initial title was Design Director and his principal remit was Prorsum, with the core womenswear and menswear teams retaining separate leadership.
Burberry announced on 8 March 2001 that Roberto Menichetti’s three-year contract would not be renewed beyond the end of that month. The company credited him with launching Prorsum and establishing a new design sensibility; no reliable contemporary source establishes dismissal, resignation or a specific creative dispute.
Children Worldwide Fashion dates its Burberry childrenswear relationship to 2000, within a wider system that also used Spanish and Japanese operations. Burberry moved the design organisation to London by 2009/10 and took direct European distribution from 1 January 2016 after the CWF relationship ended.
Bravo and Victor Barnett commissioned Fabien Baron to simplify the public identity and shape a campaign around a modern English family; Mario Testino supplied the photography. The programme removed the possessive “s” from the visible logo before or alongside the 1999 legal rename, while graphic, photographic and garment authorship remained separate.
Roberto Menichetti joined Burberry in early 1998 as its first securely named modern central fashion authority. His principal responsibility was the launch and development of Burberry Prorsum; Deborah Lloyd and Michael McGrath retained the core women’s and men’s collections, preventing the role from being inflated into sole authorship of all Burberry product.
Rose Marie Bravo became Burberry Chief Executive in October 1997 and a director on 20 October. Her mandate coordinated product, merchandising, image, licensing, distribution, retail and organisational reform, creating the operating framework in which Prorsum, new campaigns and more direct regional control developed.
Burberrys (Spain), S.A.E. was manufacturing trench coats and gabardine garments by December 1965 and developed a regionally authored collection system. Burberry acquired the licence in 2000, but separate Spanish product continued until the operation adopted the global collection for Spring/Summer 2011.
Sanyo began importing Burberry coats to Japan in 1965, followed by a Mitsui–Sanyo licence structure formalised around 1969–70. Local planning, manufacture, marketing and sales later supported Blue Label, Black Label and Japanese Burberry London; the Burberry-branded apparel system ended after Spring/Summer 2015.
Great Universal Stores acquired Burberry in 1955. The ownership change supplied capital and distribution for later international growth, but it did not establish one continuous design authority: regional licences, factories and product partners developed with different degrees of London control.
Burberry reorganised production during the Second World War across military uniforms, weatherproof clothing and civilian garments. Surviving institutional objects confirm direct manufacture, while the available evidence does not support inflated claims about exclusive military authorship or complete contract quantities.
Burberrys Limited was incorporated on 9 January 1920 and acquired the partnership business through the transfer agreed that month. The company also absorbed H. J. Nicoll and S. & J. Prestwich, joining the founder-era operation to a broader manufacturing and corporate structure without creating a second public fashion house.
During the First World War, Burberry expanded the manufacture and marketing of regulation garments, active-service kits, tunics, breeches, greatcoats and weatherproof outerwear. The wartime system was a broad institutional and production shift, not evidence that Burberry alone invented the trench coat or supplied every military coat.
Burberry built and occupied 18–22 Haymarket across 1912–13, consolidating its London shop, offices and specialist outerwear business in a purpose-designed building by Walter Cave. The move gave the house a durable metropolitan base while the older Winchester Street emporium was separated from Burberry management.
Thomas Burberry entered business in Basingstoke in 1856 by taking over an existing drapery premises. The operation expanded from general outfitting towards sporting and weatherproof clothing, establishing the commercial base from which Burberry’s textile, manufacturing and outerwear systems developed.
Burberry divisions and related structures
Burberry now operates one public fashion label, but its history includes global runway lines, regional licensed collections and specialist product divisions with different authorship. The structures below separate the current house organisation from discontinued clothing lines and from categories operated by external partners under licence.
Current collection and product structures
- Unified Burberry mainline
- Principal collection structure
- Burberry began consolidating Prorsum, London and Brit into one public label during 2016. Womenswear, menswear, outerwear, accessories and childrenswear now appear under the Burberry name, while distinct design, merchandising and production teams remain behind the unified offer.
- Burberry Classics
- Core product platform
- Introduced in March 2024 under Daniel Lee, Classics is an ongoing assortment of trench coats, outerwear, shirting, knitwear, tailoring and accessories. It is more durable than a capsule but remains part of the unified Burberry label rather than a revival of the former three-tier hierarchy.
- Childrenswear
- Product division
- Childrenswear moved through licensed European development and regional production before control and distribution were progressively centralised. Japanese operations transferred to Burberry in 2015 and European distribution became direct from 2016; the category now sits inside the principal house organisation.
- Heritage outerwear and rainwear
- Product division and manufacturing system
- Trench coats, rainwear and related outerwear form Burberry’s longest-running product system. Castleford remains a central directly controlled trench-making site, while internal development, specialist suppliers and external manufacturers retain distinct roles across materials, sampling and production.
- Accessories and leather goods
- Product division
- Handbags, small leather goods, scarves, footwear, jewellery and related objects sit within Burberry’s main product organisation. The division combines internal design and development with category-specific sourcing and specialist manufacture; licensed eyewear and Beauty are separated below because their operating authorship differs.
- Burberry Beauty
- Licensed product division
- Fragrance and cosmetics have passed through three operating phases: Interparfums from 1993 to March 2013, direct Burberry operation from April 2013 to October 2017, and an exclusive Coty licence from 2 October 2017. Burberry supplies brand and creative direction while the specialist operator develops, manufactures, markets and distributes the products.
- Burberry Eyewear
- Licensed product division
- Eyewear moved from an earlier Safilo relationship to Luxottica from 1 January 2006 and continues through EssilorLuxottica under an agreement extended to the end of 2035. Optical frames and sunglasses remain Burberry products, but specialist development, manufacture and distribution sit with the licensee.
Historical global clothing lines
- Burberry Prorsum
- Historic runway line, 1998–2016
- Roberto Menichetti launched Prorsum in 1998 as Burberry’s fashion-led global line, with Spring/Summer 1999 as its first identified commercial season. Christopher Bailey developed it across womenswear and menswear and made it the runway engine of the house before the name was absorbed into the unified Burberry collection.
- Burberry London
- Historic international line, established by 2002/03–2016
- Burberry London formed the tailored, commercially central tier of the global product hierarchy. It must be separated from Japanese and Spanish collections that used the same name under local design, manufacturing and distribution systems.
- Burberry Brit
- Historic casual line, Spring/Summer 2010–2016
- Brit gave a public name to the casual and weekend tier previously described as Lifestyle. It covered apparel, accessories and dedicated retail environments before its clothing identity was consolidated into Burberry; fragrance families carrying the Brit name belong to the separate Beauty system.
- Thomas Burberry
- Historic diffusion line, 1988–2008/09
- Launched in September 1988 as a younger, lower-priced line, Thomas Burberry circulated in Britain, Spain, Portugal and selected European markets. It was withdrawn from parts of its market, relaunched for Autumn/Winter 2003 and closed during the 2008/09 financial year.
- Lifestyle
- Historic merchandising tier
- Lifestyle described the weekend and casual base of Burberry’s late-2000s product pyramid. The evidence supports a merchandising position across categories rather than a durable autonomous label; its function was formalised publicly as Burberry Brit for Spring/Summer 2010.
- Burberry Sport
- Historic product programme
- Sport appeared as an outerwear-led programme in 2007/08 and briefly carried a wider clothing identity. It never achieved the stable global structure of Prorsum, London or Brit, while the same name also appeared on licensed fragrance, eyewear and watch products.
Regional licensed collections
- Burberry Blue Label
- Historic Japanese licensed sub-brand, 1996–Spring/Summer 2015
- Blue Label was planned, manufactured, marketed and sold through Sanyo Shokai’s regional system, later operating principally as a younger women’s proposition. Blue Label Crestbridge continued after the Burberry licence ended but is a separate Sanyo brand.
- Burberry Black Label
- Historic Japanese licensed sub-brand, 1998–Spring/Summer 2015
- Black Label belonged to the same locally authored Sanyo system and later operated principally as a younger men’s proposition. Black Label Crestbridge is its non-Burberry successor, not a continuation of the licensed house line.
- Burberry London Japan
- Historic regional licensed line
- This locally planned apparel collection shared a name with the global Burberry London tier but not its design, manufacturing or distribution organisation. It ended with the wider Japanese apparel licence after Spring/Summer 2015.
- Spanish domestic collection
- Historic regional collection system
- Burberry’s Spanish operation developed and manufactured a local collection for its home market. Burberry acquired the licence in June 2000 and ended the separate collection after Autumn/Winter 2010, introducing the global range from Spring/Summer 2011.
Closed licensed category
- Burberry Watches
- Historic licensed product division
- Burberry operated Swiss-made watches with Fossil from the early 2000s until the worldwide licence ended on 31 December 2017. No current watch programme has been established, so the category remains a closed historical division rather than part of the present Burberry offer.
Burberry collaborations
Burberry collaborations span identity, campaign, digital publishing, exhibition, runway performance and specialist manufacture. This selective archive keeps the house’s commissioning and creative direction separate from the authorship of photographers, artists, musicians, institutions and manufacturing partners; sustained category licences are covered under Divisions.
Identity, image and digital programmes
- Fabien Baron and Mario Testino
- Identity and campaign system, from 1998
- Rose Marie Bravo and Victor Barnett commissioned Fabien Baron to simplify Burberry’s public identity and shape a modern English-family advertising concept, with Mario Testino as principal photographer. The reset operated alongside Roberto Menichetti’s Prorsum collections but retained separate graphic, art-direction and photographic authorship.
- Art of the Trench with Scott Schuman
- Digital image platform, 2009
- Launched in November 2009, Art of the Trench began with commissioned street photography by Scott Schuman and expanded through public submissions. It turned the trench into a participatory image archive without becoming a clothing line or an independent media company.
- Burberry Acoustic
- Music and film programme, from 2010
- Burberry Acoustic commissioned and hosted performance films by emerging British musicians and connected music to runway, stores and digital publishing. The programme involved internal creative and digital teams alongside contributors including Musa Tariq and David Tree, with Dave Chase later directing music activity; it was an editorial platform rather than a record label.
- Peter Saville
- Graphic identity collaboration, 2018
- Riccardo Tisci commissioned Saville to develop the 2018 wordmark and TB monogram programme. Tisci set the direction and Burberry implemented the identity, while Saville retained the evidenced graphic-design and art-direction authorship.
- Tyrone Lebon and John Glacier
- Campaign, film and music collaboration, 2023
- Daniel Lee’s first Burberry creative expression, released in February 2023, was made as an identity campaign rather than a collection. Lee directed the proposition, Tyrone Lebon created its photography and films, and John Glacier supplied the original score.
- It’s Always Burberry Weather
- Recurring outerwear campaign platform, from 2024
- The campaign reactivated Burberry’s weatherproof-clothing history through contemporary image-making. Alasdair McLellan photographed the 2024 iteration and rubberband created its films; the 2025 continuation expanded the team through Lane & Associates, David Lane, Benoît Delhomme and Drew Vickers.
Fashion and product collaborations
- Burberry x Vivienne Westwood
- Fashion collaboration, December 2018
- Riccardo Tisci, Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler co-created a limited collection that reworked Westwood archive forms in Burberry materials. The project joined two British fashion histories without transferring authorship of Westwood’s designs to Burberry alone.
- Burberry x Supreme
- Co-branded capsule, March 2022
- Burberry and Supreme combined the house check and equestrian imagery with Supreme’s streetwear product system. The capsule was released beside, not inside, the Autumn/Winter 2022 runway collection.
- Burberry x Tricker’s
- Footwear collaboration, Winter 2023
- Burberry designed footwear with the Northampton shoemaker for Daniel Lee’s first runway collection. The project records specialist manufacturing and shoemaking expertise without converting Tricker’s into a Burberry division or assigning the collection itself to the manufacturer.
Exhibitions and public programmes
- Makers House with The New Craftsmen
- Craft and public programme, September 2016
- The first Makers House programme accompanied Burberry’s September 2016 presentation with live making, installations and a public exhibition developed with The New Craftsmen. It was a temporary cultural environment rather than a continuing house division.
- Makers House with the Henry Moore Foundation
- Exhibition collaboration, February 2017
- The second Makers House programme placed Burberry’s February 2017 presentation beside an exhibition of Henry Moore’s work and working processes. The Foundation retained institutional and curatorial authorship while Burberry connected the programme to its collection and venue.
- Here We Are
- Photography exhibition and campaign, 2017
- Christopher Bailey and Lucy Kumara Moore curated the exhibition at Old Sessions House, with Alasdair McLellan as co-curator and campaign photographer. More than two hundred works examined British social portraiture, extending the September collection into a linked but separately authored image and exhibition system.
- Tate Britain
- Cultural partnership, 2025
- Burberry staged its Winter 2025 show at Tate Britain alongside a one-year conservation partnership. The venue, institutional relationship and conservation support remain distinct from the authorship and chronology of the collection presented there.
- Royal Collection Trust
- Exhibition and capsule collaboration, 2026
- The project connected Burberry to the Royal Collection Trust’s exhibition on Queen Elizabeth II’s dress through historic objects and a related capsule. Institutional curatorship, product development and seasonal collection history remain separate.
Runway performance and environment collaborations
- Katia and Marielle Labèque with Arca
- Live sound collaboration, Autumn/Winter 2020
- Katia and Marielle Labèque and Arca contributed to the live musical environment for Riccardo Tisci’s Memories presentation at Kensington Olympia. Their performance and composition credits remain separate from Tisci’s collection design.
- Anne Imhof and Eliza Douglas
- Performance and environment collaboration, Spring/Summer 2021
- Anne Imhof developed the environment and performance for In Bloom, with Eliza Douglas contributing performance and music. Burberry distributed the project through Twitch, keeping artist authorship, platform production and collection design distinct.
- Gary Hume
- Runway set collaboration, Summer 2025
- Gary Hume created the original set for Burberry’s Summer 2025 presentation at the National Theatre. The commission brought a named artist’s visual language into the show environment without making him a co-designer of the clothes.
- Benji B
- Music collaboration, Winter 2025 and Summer 2026
- Benji B developed the music programmes for two Daniel Lee presentations, sourcing Sinéad O’Connor’s archive for Winter 2025 and Black Sabbath’s archive for Summer 2026. Music supervision and archive selection remain distinct from composition of the source recordings.
- FKA twigs
- Original soundtrack, Winter 2026
- FKA twigs created the soundtrack for the Winter 2026 presentation at Old Billingsgate. The music accompanied Burberry’s reconstructed Tower Bridge environment while retaining its own authorship.