
Overview
ISAMU KATAYAMA BACKLASH was founded in Tokyo in 1999 by Isamu Katayama, following roughly fourteen years of work in bag manufacturing and leather production. The label first grew through Japanese select-shop wholesale, opened its own Daikanyama store in 2003 and entered the international market with buyer exhibitions in Milan and Paris in spring 2004. Leather craft, material processing and direct knowledge of manufacturing formed the basis of the house before its reputation spread internationally.
The collection system developed through seasonal lookbooks, product catalogues and advance order exhibitions, with gallery presentations providing an early international framework. BACKLASH staged its first domestic runway for the twentieth-anniversary event BACKLASH NIGHT II DECADES in Tokyo in 2019. From 2020 the seasonal rhythm became especially clear, combining the main Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter cycles with a recurring 2nd programme for specialist lines and collaborations.
Katayama remains the label’s designer and is also named as the responsible person for BACKLASH Inc.’s online store. The active structure includes the high-end made-to-order BACKLASH The Line, the denim-specialist BACKLASH THE DENIM and the long-running BACKLASH XX Yohji Yamamoto programme. By 2026 the brand operates direct retail in Tokyo and Osaka, maintains further officially designated flagship locations, supplies a broad Japanese dealer network and selected US retailers, and ships internationally through its own e-commerce operation.
Philosophy
BACKLASH is built around the behaviour of leather after construction. Its defining garment-dye process, seihin-zome, begins with a completed garment made from undyed or lightly prepared hide, then subjects the piece to dyeing, washing, shrinkage and related treatments. The leather contracts around fixed metal hardware, creating buckled zipper lines, compressed surfaces and irregularities that make the production process visible in the finished garment.
Katayama’s material vocabulary ranges from Japanese calf and steer to Italian shoulder leather, Guidi, Maryam and Horween hides, with treatments chosen for the structure and response of each skin. The Line carries this material focus into exotic leathers and 925 silver hardware; THE DENIM applies abrasion, repair and leather contrast to jeans. Riders jackets remain central, joined by leather trousers, fabric garments, footwear, bags, jewellery and small leather goods.
Ageing is designed into the clothing. Vegetable tanning, garment dyeing, colour transfer, abrasion and patina allow the surface to keep changing through wear, and the house’s year-round material development gives familiar forms a long technical life. BACKLASH repeatedly revisits silhouettes, hides, hardware and finishing methods, using variation in construction and wear as a source of visual change across the collection system.
Timeline
Disclaimer
Creative timeline
Button TextHEROES — Portraits by HIRO KIMURA ran in Daikanyama from 23 to 28 July 2024 around the Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME × BACKLASH collaboration. Kimura’s portraits extended the fashion project into a dedicated exhibition, accompanied by an opening-day after-event at SPACE ODD.
The nine-style 2024SS Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME × ISAMU KATAYAMA BACKLASH project renewed the collaboration through a clear division of craft. Yohji Yamamoto supplied the pattern and silhouette language, BACKLASH handled the leather production, and Katayama styled the accompanying photo book.
BACKLASH Inc. opened BACKLASH OSAKA in Kitahorie on 25 August 2023 after a reception two days earlier. The store gave the company a second direct exhibition point and established the Tokyo–Osaka rhythm used for subsequent seasonal order events.
BACKLASH introduced THE DENIM with the 2023 2nd Collection in November 2022. The denim-specialist line then became a recurring part of the 2nd programme and remains present in the house’s current product structure.
BACKLASH staged the 2021 2nd Collection order exhibition on 5–6 December 2020. The intermediate programme became a recurring part of the calendar and later provided a regular setting for The Line, THE DENIM and specialist collaboration capsules.
BACKLASH NIGHT II DECADES celebrated the label’s twentieth anniversary at Ebisu The Garden Hall on 24 October 2019. Archival and new garments appeared together in the brand’s first domestic runway, turning two decades of leather work into a live retrospective.
The Autumn/Winter 2019 project with The Viridi-anne brought BACKLASH leather processing into a technical, anatomically cut menswear system. It arrived during a period of expanding collaboration immediately before the brand’s twentieth-anniversary runway.
BACKLASH launched its Yohji Yamamoto collaboration in October 2018 as part of the twentieth-anniversary period. The relationship continued through seasonal collections, Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME projects, accessories and special releases under the XX Yohji Yamamoto name.
Ballet by. BACKLASH formed part of the Spring/Summer 2019 order-exhibition programme as a dedicated womenswear line. The name later disappeared from the house’s active collection structure, leaving Spring/Summer 2019 as a clear surviving point in its history.
BACKLASH presented Autumn/Winter 2014–15 at Kogan Gallery in Paris on 19 January 2014. The gallery setting continued the international exhibition model that had framed the label’s European seasonal activity since its 2004 debut.
The 2012 mastermind JAPAN collaboration placed BACKLASH leather work within Japan’s high-end dark streetwear scene. It broadened the cultural setting for Katayama’s material practice during a mature phase of the brand’s development.
Koichi Makino’s ISAMU KATAYAMA = ARTISANAL LIFE was completed and released in 2009 after an extended production period. The film gave Katayama’s workshop culture and leather methods a sustained public portrait outside the seasonal collection cycle.
Keita Ogawa joined BACKLASH Inc. in 2004 and participated in leather development with Japanese and international tanneries. He left in 2009 to found incarnation, carrying that technical experience into an independent Florence-based practice.
In spring 2004 BACKLASH began presenting collections to international buyers in Milan and Paris. The exhibitions added European wholesale to a business previously built through Japanese select shops and established the overseas presentation model used through much of the following decade.
Katayama has directed ISAMU KATAYAMA BACKLASH from its foundation through its current collection system. His authorship links the early garment-dyed leather practice to The Line, THE DENIM and the long-running Yohji Yamamoto programme.
Isamu Katayama founded BACKLASH Inc. and ISAMU KATAYAMA BACKLASH in Tokyo in 1999. His years in bag manufacturing supplied the technical foundation for an independent fashion practice centred on leather construction and processing.
ISAMU KATAYAMA BACKLASH divisions and related structures
The current line structure centres on three active programmes. Ballet by. BACKLASH appeared as a womenswear line in the Spring/Summer 2019 cycle and has since receded from the house’s active collection structure.
Active lines
- BACKLASH The Line
- high-end made-to-order line
- A premium programme built around exceptional hides, exotic skins and 925 silver hardware. The line was active by 2018 and continues through the current made-to-order collection system.
- BACKLASH THE DENIM
- denim-specialist line
- Introduced with the 2023 2nd collection, presented in November 2022. THE DENIM isolates jeans and denim construction as a specialist field for distressing, repair, leather inserts and related BACKLASH finishing techniques.
- BACKLASH XX Yohji Yamamoto
- durable collaborative programme
- Initiated in 2018 and sustained through seasonal and special releases. The programme combines BACKLASH leather production with Yohji Yamamoto pattern, silhouette and product languages and remains part of the current collection structure.
Historical line
- Ballet by. BACKLASH
- historical womenswear line
- Ballet by. BACKLASH appeared in the Spring/Summer 2019 order exhibition as a dedicated womenswear line. It does not appear among the house’s active lines in 2026.
ISAMU KATAYAMA BACKLASH collaborations
Collaboration has extended BACKLASH leather craft into Japanese avant-garde fashion, motorcycle culture, workwear, denim, jewellery and commercial product projects. Some relationships recur across several seasons; others concentrate on a single material, garment or event.
Long-running and formative relationships
- Yohji Yamamoto
- fashion collaboration, 2018–present
- The brand’s longest-running institutional fashion relationship, spanning XX Yohji Yamamoto releases, Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME projects, New Era triple-name products and later accessory work.
- ROLL
- motorcycle and rocker collaboration
- An early recurring partnership that combined BACKLASH riders construction with ROLL’s British-rock and motorcycle vocabulary.
- mastermind JAPAN
- luxury streetwear collaboration, 2012
- The 2012 project placed BACKLASH leather work within Japan’s dark-luxury streetwear scene at the height of mastermind JAPAN’s original run.
- The Viridi-anne
- fashion collaboration, Autumn/Winter 2019
- A collection-scale project combining BACKLASH leather processing with The Viridi-anne’s technical and anatomical approach to menswear.
Seasonal and product collaborations
- RESURRECTION
- denim and finishing
- Produced individually processed denim for BACKLASH and later returned within the seasonal collaboration programme.
- NANGA, Kanata, FULLCOUNT, Dickies and Wrangler
- outerwear, knitwear, denim and workwear partners
- Appeared across 2nd-season and capsule programmes, bringing BACKLASH treatments into specialist product categories.
- Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO, Loud Style Design, Lee and Vanson
- fashion, jewellery, denim and leather collaborations
- Recurring or season-specific partners within the 2023–2025 order-exhibition system.
- Guidi, HTC/Hollywood Trading Company, TT&CO., FIXER, Casablanca Spectacles and Kosuke Matsui
- 2026 2nd-collection collaborators
- The 2026 2nd programme brought together leather, hardware, helmets, jewellery, eyewear and guest product work across seven named partnerships.
- Sapporo Black Label
- promotional leather project, 2024
- A limited riders-jacket project that carried BACKLASH leather construction into a large Japanese consumer-brand campaign.