Lueder

LUEDER is a London-based label founded in 2019 by German designer Marie Lueder. Developed as a performance-led fashion project, the brand explores contemporary masculinity through clothing that balances theatricality with function, informed by Lueder’s background in bespoke tailoring and experience working as a tailor at the Hamburg State Opera. Since launching, LUEDER has shown in Berlin and London contexts and has been part of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN support at London Fashion Week.

The label is recognised for silhouettes that reference armour and protection, translated through engineered cut, ergonomic seam-work and material experimentation. Industry profiles describe a hybrid of sartorial detail with sportswear and functional aesthetics, alongside medieval research as a conceptual anchor. Sustainability is presented as integral to the product system, with use of materials including organic denim, recycled jersey and regenerated nylon.

The brand has also been noted within European talent platforms, including shortlist recognition linked to the Vogue Fashion Fund ecosystem, positioning LUEDER within the current London avant-garde that treats fashion as narrative, performance and wearable construction rather than purely seasonal styling.

LUEDER frames clothing as a form of shielding and self-definition, using the language of armour to discuss freedom of expression and individuality. Rather than treating masculinity as a fixed template, the brand approaches it as something constructed and re-imagined, with garments functioning as both costume and protection. This positioning is reinforced through performance as a founding format, where the runway becomes a space to test identity, movement and gesture alongside cut and proportion.

The label’s stated method relies on tension between historical reference and contemporary utility: medieval armour is researched not as nostalgia, but as a system for framing the body and signalling strength, vulnerability and community. Material choices and construction are used to support that reading, with functional detailing and a sustainability-led approach presented as part of the brand’s responsibility.

The result is a philosophy that prioritises purpose and emotional charge in design, aiming for clothing that carries narrative and structure while remaining wearable, protective and grounded in craftsmanship.