Marie Lueder

Marie Lueder is a German-born designer based in London and the founder of the menswear-led label LUEDER. An alumna of the Royal College of Art and a former bespoke tailor at the Hamburg State Opera, she brings a high level of technical proficiency and a deep interest in the psychological functions of clothing to her work. As a member of the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN cohort, she has become a significant figure in the contemporary exploration of functional and protective fashion.

Lueder is recognized for her ability to synthesize historical references with modern technical performance. Her career is marked by a focus on the emotional relationship between the wearer and the garment, addressing themes of mental space and physical safety. By merging the rigours of traditional tailoring with the requirements of modern sportswear, she has established a distinct creative voice that prioritises the wearer’s well-being and identity.

Clothing is conceived as 'armour' designed to shield the body and create a safe 'mental space' for the wearer. This ethos synthesises medieval silhouettes with modern sportswear and technical performance fabrics such as recycled nylon and organic denim. Design signals include intricate panelling and protective volumes that suggest a sense of physical and psychological security. A recurring fascination with myth and ritualistic protection informs the narrative development of the collections.

Construction techniques focus on the protective function of the garment, where the placement of seams and the manipulation of volume are engineered to provide comfort and resilience. This approach rejects the purely decorative in favour of a utilitarian aesthetic that values structural integrity and material innovation. By prioritizing the interaction between the garment and the wearer’s state of mind, the work achieves a sophisticated vision of modern functionalism that balances historical depth with technical excellence.