Acne Studios

Acne Studios marked its thirtieth anniversary at the Collège des Bernardins with a collection organised as a self-portrait rather than a chronological retrospective. Familiar elements—denim, cropped aviator jackets, distorted checks, silk scarves and contradictory scale—returned as working material rather than replicas of archive pieces.

The show recalled the disruptive domestic setting of the Spring/Summer 2011 Kensington Palace presentation while giving the interiors a darker, more formal mood. It presented continuity as a set of recurring obsessions that could still be altered, misremembered and placed into new relationships.