Ann Demeulemeester

Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s debut reduced the house archive into sheer, close-to-body and highly exposed forms. Feather bralettes, transparent layers and minimal construction carried his own sensual vocabulary into a label historically associated with protective tailoring and elongated proportion.

The show became the only runway collection of his tenure, making it a concentrated record of the mismatch and overlap between two distinct approaches to gender-fluid dress.