Ann Demeulemeester

Spring/Summer 1997 loosened classical drapery into asymmetrical garments that slipped from the shoulder and moved between dress, shirt and tailored layer. The soundtrack’s Patti Smith reference reinforced the collection’s connection to androgynous performance without turning the clothes into stage costume.

Its balance of exposure, bias cut and nonchalant tailoring became one of the clearest expressions of Demeulemeester’s alternative to the body-conscious glamour of the period.