N.HOOLYWOOD

THE KAPITAN was shown in New York on 10 February 2012 and used Ernest Hemingway’s biography as the framework for Autumn/Winter 2012–13. References moved through his First World War service, years in Cuba and the maritime world of The Old Man and the Sea, giving Obana a structure for military, workwear and seafaring garments without turning the runway into literal period costume.

The collection is one of the clearest examples of N.HOOLYWOOD’s early New York method: a tightly researched historical figure used as a way to connect distinct garment archetypes and environments. The narrative supplied cohesion, while the design work remained focused on proportion, fabrication and the functional codes of the source clothes.