Francesco Fucci

Francesco Fucci is an Italian fashion designer from the province of Caserta whose training began with pattern cutting in Naples. He continued through apprenticeships in Milan with Lawrence Steele and in Paris with Maison Hurel, Maison Lesage and Maison Michel, giving him an unusually construction-heavy foundation before he moved into ready-to-wear design.

Fucci relocated to New York in 2008 and worked with Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein Collection, later becoming senior design director at Diane von Furstenberg and then head designer at The Row. Theory appointed him creative director of womenswear in May 2018. Across his Theory collections, he softened the house uniform through menswear-derived proportion, tactile fabrics, richer colour and a more fluid understanding of how professional women dressed across office, home and shared workspaces.

Fucci left Theory after completing the Spring 2020 collection and has continued as an independent designer and consultant. His recent work includes a recurring collaboration with the South Korean label KUHO, expanded through seasonal capsules in 2025 and 2026, where his restrained tailoring and material sensibility meet the brand’s architectural womenswear.

Fucci’s design language is minimalist in outline and highly attentive to feeling. He uses cut, colour, texture and proportion to give familiar garments an emotional temperature, with relaxed suits, long coats, fluid dresses and disciplined separates carrying most of the work.

His background in pattern making and specialist Paris ateliers remains visible in the precision of construction. At Theory and in later collaborations, masculine wardrobe codes are adapted to the female body through softer structure and subtle shifts in volume, giving restraint a tactile and sensual dimension.