Philippe Paubert

Philippe Paubert is a French designer who has led the menswear revival at the house of Emanuel Ungaro. Appointed as the artistic director of the men’s collections in 2013, he brought with him a wealth of experience from his two-decade tenure at the Italian luxury label Brioni. His career is defined by a deep-seated mastery of tailoring and a sophisticated understanding of the luxury market. At Ungaro, he has been tasked with translating the flamboyant and colour-rich heritage of the house into a modern masculine wardrobe. His work has successfully balanced the brand’s historic codes with a contemporary sense of wearability and refinement.

A graduate of the prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Paubert represents the classic tradition of French design excellence. His approach is understated and focused on the nuances of cut and construction. By revitalising Ungaro’s menswear, he has re-established the brand as a destination for the man who seeks a blend of Parisian chic and Mediterranean flair. His steady leadership and technical expertise have made him a respected figure within the industry, known for his ability to maintain brand relevance through consistent quality and elegant design.

Philippe Paubert’s design ethos is centred on the synthesis of Parisian structural elegance and a relaxed, Mediterranean-inspired sensuality. He draws heavily from the Emanuel Ungaro archive, specifically the house’s signature use of bold prints and vibrant colours, but applies them with a disciplined restraint. His work is defined by the quality of its tailoring, a skill honed during his years at Brioni, which manifests in garments that possess both lightness and structure. He avoids the trend-driven fluctuations of the industry, preferring to focus on the longevity of the silhouette and the tactile quality of the fabrics. This results in a wardrobe that feels timelessly sophisticated.

The technical execution of his collections emphasizes the importance of the internal construction of a garment, ensuring a perfect fit and a sense of ease. He often experiments with texture, blending silk and linen or using unconventional jacquards to add depth to his designs. His ethos is one of joie de vivre, where fashion is seen as a source of pleasure and self-expression. By modernising traditional menswear archetypes, such as the trench coat or the double-breasted blazer, he creates pieces that are both respectful of history and suited to the needs of the modern man. His approach is ultimately humanistic, prioritising the wearer’s comfort and confidence above all else.