
Introduction
Yuka Miyake is a fashion designer whose documented career began in womenswear planning and design at Onward Kashiyama, where she developed experience in garment construction and commercial collection development. By 2020 she had joined Costume National's internal design structure during a period of transition following the departure of Koji Udo and Yasutoshi Ezumi.
For Autumn/Winter 2020–21, Miyake was the named designer within the team responsible for Costume National menswear and womenswear. Contemporary reporting identifies her as a member of the design team and does not support a sole-author or creative-director title. Her comments on the collection emphasised retaining the founder-era sharp, minimal silhouette while adjusting scale and detail for a contemporary wardrobe.
In September 2021 Miyake launched AMULETOI with pattern maker Chihiro Takeshita and production specialist Takako Takani. Miyake assumed responsibility for design and the wider creative direction of the label, whose debut centred on trousers supported by blouses and a jacket. The project was conceived around durable wardrobe pieces, original fabrics and a gradual accumulation of continuing styles outside a rigid seasonal cycle.
Design ethos
Miyake's documented work favours precise, wearable construction. At Costume National she worked with clean silhouettes and close adjustments of size, proportion and detail, preserving the house's established sharpness while reducing the number of styles and concentrating the collection.
AMULETOI develops that discipline through trousers and compact wardrobe pieces intended for long use. Wide, straight and slim silhouettes are supported by careful pattern cutting, original fabrics and tactile finishes, with fit and confidence treated as central design concerns. The collaboration with a dedicated pattern maker and production specialist gives construction a defined place in the label's authorship.
The label also uses continuity as a product principle. Core styles can remain, change colour or pattern, and be replaced gradually without forcing every garment into a conventional seasonal reset. This approach connects Miyake's commercial design background to a small independent wardrobe built around durability, controlled variation and repeat wear.
Disclaimer
Career history
2020
For Autumn/Winter 2020–21, Costume National transferred menswear and womenswear to an internal design team that included Yuka Miyake. Miyake is supported as a designer within the team, with no sole authorship or house-wide director title.
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