
Overview
Hermès began in Paris in 1837, when Thierry Hermès opened a harness and saddlery workshop at 56 rue Basse-du-Rempart. Charles-Émile Hermès moved the workshops and opened a store at 24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré in 1880. Under Adolphe and Émile-Maurice Hermès, the firm traded as Hermès Frères before Émile-Maurice consolidated control in 1922 and extended saddlery skills into travel goods, clothing, jewellery, watches and silk.
The house developed as a network of specialist métiers rather than a single fashion line. Its twentieth-century structure joined leather goods and equestrian work to women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, silk, shoes, jewellery, watchmaking, perfume, beauty and the home. Family stewardship continued through Robert Dumas, Jean-Louis Dumas and later generations; Hermès adopted the société en commandite par actions form in 1990 and listed a minority of its capital in 1993 while preserving family control.
Hermès now operates through separate artistic leads by métier, with Pierre-Alexis Dumas providing overall artistic direction. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski directs women’s ready-to-wear, while Grace Wales Bonner was appointed to men’s ready-to-wear in 2025 ahead of her announced January 2027 debut. The house remains defined by long product development, workshop knowledge and the circulation of equestrian construction across clothing, objects and image.
Philosophy
Hermès builds design from material, function and repeated use. A saddle, bag, coat, scarf or watch begins with the demands of its category: weight, movement, closure, handle, proportion and repair. Leather is cut and stitched for endurance; silk carries drawing and colour; ready-to-wear places those skills against the body through supple structure, controlled volume and exact finishing.
The métier system distributes authorship. Ready-to-wear, leather goods, silk, shoes, jewellery, watches, perfume, beauty and home objects have distinct studios and creative leads, while workshops and outside specialists shape execution. This structure allows a house code to recur without making every object the work of one designer: harness hardware, straps, saddle quilting, scarf construction and travel forms can move between categories while retaining their technical origin.
Continuity at Hermès is maintained through production and training as much as through archives. The Pantin workshops, École Hermès des savoir-faire, Manufacto, petit h and Ateliers Horizons preserve craft knowledge while testing new materials, uses and scales. Novelty is most persuasive here when it changes how an object works or ages, not when it merely alters its surface.
Recent events

Disclaimer
Creative timeline
Button TextHermès announced on 17 October 2025 that Véronique Nichanian would present her final men’s ready-to-wear collection in January 2026, closing a tenure begun in 1988.
Hermès appointed Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear on 24 July 2014. Her Autumn–Winter 2015 debut opened an ongoing wardrobe built through leather, equestrian construction, cashmere and silk.
Hermès announced Christophe Lemaire’s departure on 21 July 2014 so he could focus on his own label. He completed the tenure with the Spring–Summer 2015 collection shown on 1 October 2014.
Hermès announced Jean Paul Gaultier’s departure on 26 May 2010 and named Christophe Lemaire as his successor. Gaultier’s final collection was Spring–Summer 2011, presented in October 2010.
Christophe Lemaire joined Hermès women’s ready-to-wear in 2010. His collections ran from Autumn–Winter 2011 through Spring–Summer 2015, developing a relaxed wardrobe through volume, natural materials and leather.
Hermès announced Jean Paul Gaultier for women’s ready-to-wear on 18 May 2003. His tenure ran through the Spring–Summer 2011 collection shown in October 2010 and remained separate from menswear and his own house.
Martin Margiela directed Hermès women’s ready-to-wear from 1997 to Spring–Summer 2003, producing twelve collections. His wardrobe centred comfort, movement, modular construction and discreet material quality.
Hermès appointed Claude Brouet Director of Women’s Fashion in 1988. She headed a studio of named designers and specialist contributors until approximately 1996, before the Margiela transition.
Jean-Louis Dumas invited Véronique Nichanian to Hermès in 1988. She led men’s ready-to-wear and, in later official wording, the men’s universe through her final collection on 24 January 2026.
Hermès dates the Birkin bag to 1984 and links its development to a conversation between Jean-Louis Dumas and Jane Birkin during a flight. The capacious leather form answered a request for a practical bag and became one of the house’s most recognisable objects. A wide opening, two handles, flap and belt closure organised a large everyday volume without separating utility from precise leather construction. The object carried the logic of travel luggage into a bag designed for daily use.
Catherine de Károlyi was entrusted with the Hermès women’s wardrobe in 1967 and led two clothing collections a year until 1980. Contemporary reporting called her modéliste; her remit also included accessories.
Edmond Roudnitska composed Eau d’Hermès in 1951, the point Hermès identifies as the beginning of its modern olfactory programme. The fragrance extended the house’s material vocabulary into scent through leather, spice and the atmosphere of travel objects. Its launch established named perfumer authorship inside Hermès, a structure later continued through Jean-Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel.
The Chaîne d’ancre bracelet converts the scale and articulation of an anchor chain into a repeated silver link. Hermès associates the design with Robert Dumas and places its creation around 1938. The motif’s alternating oval links and central bar gave jewellery a mechanical clarity close to the house’s harness hardware. It became a persistent code across bracelets, rings, bags and other objects.
Jeu des omnibus et dames blanches was launched in 1937 as the first Hermès silk square. The object established the carré as a durable format through which drawing, colour and textile printing could circulate independently of ready-to-wear. Its square construction made an illustrated textile usable as scarf, belt, head covering or garment detail. That combination of image and function established women’s silk as a recurring Hermès métier.
Hermès introduced the Sac à Dépêches in 1928 as a structured leather bag with a compact, trapezoidal body and top handle. It forms an early point in the object history later associated with the Kelly. During the 1930s Robert Dumas developed a related ladies’ bag, and photographs of Grace Kelly carrying the form in the 1950s changed its public identity. The Kelly name belongs to that later history, not to the 1928 title.
Émile-Maurice Hermès engaged Lola Prusac in 1927 to design bags, leather clothing and coordinated outfits. Her mixed remit placed a named fashion author inside the house’s early clothing programme.
Hermès marketed a rounded, zipped bag for automobile travel in 1923 after obtaining limited rights to use a sliding fastener. Functional names included sac auto, sac de ville and sac de voyage, all describing a form adapted to the new conditions of car travel. The bag joined a modern closure to reinforced leather construction and compact luggage proportions. Hermès adopted the name Bolide for the family in 1995.
Émile-Maurice Hermès bought Adolphe Hermès’s shares in 1922 and restored the singular Hermès name. Under his control, the house extended saddlery knowledge into travel goods, clothing and a growing set of product programmes.
The Haut à courroies adapted saddlery construction to travel, using a tall leather body and straps to carry riding boots and a saddle. The bag family existed by the end of the nineteenth century and later Hermès chronology places it around 1900. Its height, reinforced base and encircling straps translated equipment made for horses into an object made for riders in transit. The form became an early foundation for the house’s travel and bag programmes.
Hermès received a first-class medal at the 1867 Paris Universal Exhibition for a harness made under Charles-Émile Hermès’s direction. The award placed the second-generation workshop within the period’s international culture of craft and industry.
Charles-Émile Hermès assumed operating responsibility in 1859, before formally succeeding Thierry Hermès after the founder’s death in 1878. His period connected the original workshop to the later Faubourg Saint-Honoré house.
Thierry Hermès opened a harness and saddlery workshop at 56 rue Basse-du-Rempart in Paris in 1837. The workshop established Hermès within the professional trade serving horse transport.
Hermès divisions and related structures
Hermès organises creation through distinct métiers, specialist workshops and institutional programmes. Their histories overlap, but their authorship and product responsibilities remain separate.
Fashion, leather and silk
- Leather goods and equestrian
- Founding métier
- Saddlery and harness making formed the house in 1837; travel goods and handbags later extended the same leather-working knowledge into modern movement.
- Women’s ready-to-wear
- Wardrobe programme
- A sustained women’s wardrobe was established under Catherine de Károlyi in 1967 and is currently directed by Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski.
- Men’s ready-to-wear
- Menswear programme
- Véronique Nichanian led the programme from 1988 to January 2026; Grace Wales Bonner was appointed in 2025, with her first collection announced for January 2027.
- Women’s silk and men’s silk
- Separate silk métiers
- The carré programme began in 1937. Hermès now distinguishes women’s and men’s silk, each with its own creative direction and seasonal product development.
- Shoes, belts, hats and gloves
- Accessory métiers
- These categories retain separate workshop and product histories. Hermès shoes are distinct from John Lobb, the independently rooted shoemaker integrated into the group in 1976.
Objects and personal goods
- Jewellery and Haute Bijouterie
- Jewellery métier
- The jewellery programme includes recurrent house motifs and a Haute Bijouterie line launched in 2010, with Pierre Hardy directing current jewellery creation.
- Hermès Horloger
- Watchmaking
- La Montre Hermès established watchmaking as a dedicated métier in 1978. Creation and development are currently led by Philippe Delhotal.
- Hermès Parfums
- Fragrance
- The modern fragrance programme began with Eau d’Hermès in 1951 and developed through named perfumers including Edmond Roudnitska, Jean-Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel.
- Hermès Beauty
- Sixteenth métier
- Beauty became a distinct métier in 2020. Gregoris Pyrpylis directs Beauty, while Pierre Hardy designs its objects and packaging forms.
Home, experimentation and transmission
- Home universe and tableware
- Art de vivre
- Furniture, lighting, textiles, rugs and tableware form a broad home programme, currently directed by Charlotte Macaux Perelman and Alexis Fabry.
- petit h
- Creation in reverse
- Created under Pascale Mussard in 2010, petit h begins with unused materials from Hermès workshops and develops singular objects from what is available.
- Ateliers Horizons
- Special orders
- The bespoke programme develops mobility and interior projects ranging from vehicles and bicycles to private aircraft and marine commissions.
- Fondation d’entreprise Hermès
- Culture and transmission
- Founded in 2008, the Foundation supports creation, exhibitions and craft transmission through programmes and spaces separate from the commercial métiers.
- École Hermès des savoir-faire and Manufacto
- Craft education
- The accredited school opened in 2021, while Manufacto has introduced craft practice in schools through the Foundation since 2016.
- John Lobb, Puiforcat and Saint-Louis
- Partner maisons
- These shoemaking, silversmithing and crystal houses retain distinct histories and identities within the Hermès group.
Hermès collaborations
Hermès collaborations are most legible when a specific product joins the house’s craft systems to another company’s technology or design language.
Technology and product
- Apple Watch Hermès
- Apple, 2015–present
- Introduced in September 2015, the partnership combines Apple Watch hardware and interfaces with Hermès leather straps, colour systems and watchmaking references.