HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE
Overview
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE is the house’s menswear pleating brand, launched in 2013 and built around the disciplined ease of pleated clothing for contemporary male dress. It takes the Miyake pleating system into a wardrobe of jackets, trousers, coats, shirts and separates that move with the body rather than armouring it. The line has its own presentation rhythm and runway identity, distinct from both the historical ISSEY MIYAKE MEN and the later research-led IM MEN.
Its strength lies in making pleated menswear feel neither decorative nor eccentric. The garments often carry the outline of familiar masculine dress — the suit, the overcoat, the uniform, the working layer — but their construction changes the temperature entirely. HOMME PLISSÉ turns structure into lightness, formality into movement, and the daily wardrobe into something more elastic, more portable and more quietly theatrical.
Philosophy
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE treats pleating as a complete menswear system, not as surface effect. Its garments are shaped through sewn-before-pleated construction, allowing volume, recovery, portability and ease to become part of the object’s behaviour. The line shares a technical kinship with PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE, but its philosophy is tuned to the habits and rituals of masculine dress.
The result is menswear with a rare combination of uniformity and release. HOMME PLISSÉ understands that the male wardrobe has long been governed by stiffness, hierarchy and respectable discomfort; its answer is not rebellion for spectacle’s sake, but a more intelligent elasticity. Pleats become a way to let clothing breathe, travel, fold, perform and return, giving everyday menswear a kind of engineered sang-froid.
Disclaimer
Creative timeline
Never Change, Ever Change places HOMME PLISSÉ’s pleating process inside a digital presentation format, showing how the brand’s garment system adapted to the early-2020s presentation landscape.
A Walk in the Park continued the brand’s use of public movement and choreographed space, positioning pleated menswear as everyday clothing that can also operate as performance.
The 2019 Playground performance at Centre Pompidou reinforced HOMME PLISSÉ’s ability to move between clothing, choreography, public space and fashion-week presentation.
Flying Bodies, Soaring Spirits, performed with the Aomori University men’s rhythmic gymnastics team, tested HOMME PLISSÉ through athletic movement and made performance part of the brand’s founding story.
HOMME PLISSÉ launched in 2013 as a menswear expression of Miyake’s garment-pleating system. It belongs to the pleating-system layer and remains separate from ISSEY MIYAKE MEN and IM MEN.
