Introduction
Claude Brouet was a French fashion journalist appointed Director of Women’s Fashion at Hermès in 1988. She headed the women’s studio after Eric Bergère’s collection-led phase and directed a team that included, at different points, Tan Giudicelli, Marc Audibet, Tomas Maier, Michèle Meunier and Olivier Châtenet.
Brouet’s role centred on fashion and studio direction rather than sole authorship of every collection. She left in 1996, followed by a transition that ended with the public announcement of Martin Margiela’s appointment in 1997.
Design ethos
Brouet was asked to modernise the women’s wardrobe without abandoning its equestrian and silk foundations. Seasonal colour, fabric and styling made those codes responsive to contemporary fashion, while the studio’s designers developed garments and specialist contributors handled categories such as shoes.
Her contribution lies in orchestration: setting a collection direction, editing a team and connecting clothing to the wider Hermès image. The period is therefore defined by a studio system rather than a single designer signature.
Disclaimer
Career history
1988
Hermès appointed Claude Brouet Director of Women’s Fashion in 1988. She headed a studio of named designers and specialist contributors until approximately 1996, before the Margiela transition.
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