Emma Chopova

Emma Chopova is a London-based designer and the co-founder of the label Chopova Lowena, established in 2017 alongside Laura Lowena-Irons. A graduate of Central Saint Martins’ MA program, Chopova is credited with bringing a deep interest in her Bulgarian heritage and traditional craft to the brand’s contemporary aesthetic. Her work represents a significant contribution to the modernization of folkloric textiles, successfully merging artisanal history with a subversive, youth-driven perspective.

Chopova is recognized for her role in advocating for sustainable and community-led manufacturing. Her career reflects a commitment to preserving the skills of female artisans in Bulgaria while creating garments that resonate with a global audience. By focusing on narrative-driven construction and the use of deadstock fabrics, she has established herself as a key figure in the contemporary evolution of sustainable luxury, celebrating the enduring power of cultural storytelling through innovative design.

The modernisation of traditional Bulgarian textiles is explored through a lens of 'folklore meets sportswear', resulting in a design language that values both historical depth and technical utility. The work is defined by the suspension of pleated panels on heavy-duty metal carabiners and the strategic use of clashing prints, embroidery, and aprons. Sustainability is core to the methodology, where garments are constructed from deadstock fabrics to minimize environmental impact.

Construction techniques emphasize the preservation of heritage, where each piece is crafted by skilled female artisans in Bulgaria to ensure the continuation of artisanal traditions. The resulting silhouette is defined by its eclectic and multi-layered quality, where the physical act of suspension becomes a primary structural and decorative element. By prioritizing the relationship between ancestral craft and contemporary subculture, the output achieves a balanced aesthetic that celebrates the resilience of the cultures it references while offering a provocative and modern vision of dress.