Introduction
Glenn Martens is a Belgian fashion designer and one of the most acclaimed creative voices of his generation. A graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, he began his career at Jean Paul Gaultier before taking the helm of Y/Project, where he spent over a decade transforming the label into a major player in conceptual streetwear. In 2020, he was appointed Creative Director of Diesel, and in 2025, he was named the Creative Director of Maison Margiela, further cementing his status as a leader in avant-garde luxury.
Martens is celebrated for his ability to inject humour, rebellious energy, and technical brilliance into established brands. His work has consistently challenged the boundaries of garment construction and gender identity, earning him numerous accolades, including the ANDAM Prize. He remains based in Paris, where his influence continues to grow as he navigates the intersection of high-concept deconstruction and global commercial appeal.
Design ethos
Experimental approaches to proportion and a 'twisted' sense of deconstruction define a design language that consistently explores gender fluidity and garment versatility. At Y/Project, this was manifested through customizable volume and complex buttoning systems that allowed pieces to be draped or adjusted in multiple ways. This focus on the transformative potential of the garment results in silhouettes that are both intellectually challenging and visually dynamic, often playing with extreme scale and unexpected textures.
Innovative treatment of denim serves as a recurring formal concern, particularly through the use of distressing, sculptural manipulation, and ironic branding. The aesthetic often incorporates elements of historical quotation subverted by contemporary streetwear codes, creating a sense of urban theatricality. By balancing high-concept artistry with a grounded, often humorous perspective on 'successful living', the work addresses a diverse and youthful audience. This ethos prioritises individual expression and the subversion of traditional luxury norms in favour of a more democratic and rebellious artistic vision.
Disclaimer
Career history
2026
as
Creative director
On 1 April 2026, Glenn Martens brought Maison Margiela to Shanghai Fashion Week for the house’s first runway show outside Paris since its founding in 1988. Staging a presentation that combined his latest ready-to-wear with new Artisanal looks, the house used the moment not simply as a change of venue but as an early international statement of Martens’s tenure and a public expansion of Margiela’s presence in China.
2026
as
Creative director
Maison Margiela did not appear on the official Paris Fashion Week womenswear AW26–27 calendar in March 2026, redirecting attention to Glenn Martens’s Shanghai presentation on 1 April — the house’s first runway show outside Paris and an early sign that his tenure would not be confined to the usual Paris schedule.
2025
as
Creative director
Glenn Martens pushes Margiela toward denser reconstruction, amplified craft and a more aggressive experimental silhouette.
2025
as
Creative director
Links Maison Margiela to twisted deconstruction, unstable proportion and garments built to shift their own shape.
2025
as
Creative director
Glenn Martens presents his debut Maison Margiela Artisanal (FW25) runway show.
2025
as
Creative director
Maison Margiela appointed Glenn Martens as creative director. Joined from Diesel and Y-Project. Replaced John Galliano.
2022
Glenn Martens turned Jean Paul Gaultier’s guest-couture format into one of the season’s major creative events.
2022
as
Diesel's first major runway under Glenn Martens reintroduced the brand as a sharper, more directional fashion player.
2020
as
Creative director
Glenn Martens pushed Diesel toward abrasive glamour, distressed fabrication and a more knowingly subversive take on mass-market codes.
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