Introduction
Paulo Melim Andersson is a Portuguese-born Swedish designer whose senior studio career includes Marni and Chloé. He worked as design director at Marni before Chloé appointed him creative director on 12 October 2006, ending the studio interregnum that followed Phoebe Philo’s resignation.
Andersson presented three Chloé collections, beginning with Autumn/Winter 2007, before the house announced his departure in March 2008. His short tenure remains a distinct part of the chronology: it redirected the label through offbeat colour, asymmetry and a rougher handling of femininity before Hannah MacGibbon’s appointment.
Design ethos
Andersson’s work sets fluid dress against displaced proportion and sharper surface. His Marni background is visible in an ease with unusual colour, asymmetrical cut and combinations that resist a polished, literal version of femininity.
At Chloé, those devices pushed the house’s softness towards a more eccentric and urban register. Texture, drape and styling carried the shift, while the clothes retained enough movement to remain connected to the label’s established wardrobe.
Disclaimer
Career history
2006
Chloé appointed Paulo Melim Andersson creative director on 12 October 2006 after his design directorship at Marni. Across three collections he introduced offbeat colour, asymmetry and a rougher register before the house announced his departure in March 2008.
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