Yasuko Furuta

Yasuko Furuta is the Japanese designer and founder of Toga, a label established in Tokyo in 1997. After studying at Esmod in both Tokyo and Paris and working as a costume designer, she launched Toga to critical acclaim, eventually becoming the first Japanese designer to win the ANDAM award in 2007. Her work is celebrated for its unique ability to blend traditional Japanese aesthetics with Western subcultural influences.

Furuta has successfully expanded the brand internationally, maintaining a distinct and independent voice in the fashion industry. Her designs are noted for their complexity and their ability to challenge conventional gender and style boundaries, making Toga a consistent favourite among fashion insiders and critics alike.

The exploration of a ‘complex femininity’ is achieved through the systematic blending of Western subcultural tropes with refined, often unconventional tailoring. Silhouettes frequently incorporate ‘off-kilter’ elements and a hybridisation of styles, such as the juxtaposition of rockabilly motifs with traditional Japanese influences. There is a persistent use of mesh, vinyl, and intentional cut-outs, where skin is treated as a decorative element rather than just a physical presence.

Design decisions are driven by a desire for ‘freedom of expression’ and a rejection of binary categories in fashion. The work often features functional complexity, where garments are designed to be layered or transformed, reflecting a feminist-led approach to modern dress. By challenging established societal codes through the use of ‘jarring’ materials and unexpected proportions, the aesthetic maintains a sense of radical independence and intellectual curiosity.