Overview
1017 ALYX 9SM is a contemporary luxury label founded in 2015 as Alyx by Matthew M. Williams, Jennifer Murray and Slam Jam founder Luca Benini. The project began with womenswear and joined a New York and Californian subcultural viewpoint to development and production in Ferrara, where the partnership gave the young company access to Italian mills, hardware specialists and international distribution.
The name changed to 1017 ALYX 9SM in May 2018. Its numerical code combines Williams’s 17 October birth date with 9 Saint Mark’s Place, the address of the founding New York studio, while ALYX retains the name of his eldest daughter. Menswear, bags, footwear and jewellery expanded the original womenswear line, with the Rollercoaster buckle, Chest Rig and dense metal chains becoming recognisable parts of the brand’s product system.
C Capital, the investment vehicle associated with Adrian Cheng, acquired a majority stake in late 2023. The company subsequently announced a move towards direct retail, standalone stores and a Paris headquarters, while Williams reset the collections around quieter American wardrobe forms, natural textiles and the industrial hardware that had defined the label’s first decade.
Philosophy
Williams describes the label through aggressive elegance: tactical equipment, fetish hardware, skate and club references are subjected to the precision of Italian manufacturing. Military vests, cargo trousers, leather tailoring and compact bags retain their practical archetypes while proportion, material and finishing move them into a luxury register.
Hardware functions as construction and identity rather than applied decoration. The Rollercoaster buckle originated as an AustriAlpin safety mechanism, and its weight, sound and over-engineered closure became a sensory alternative to a printed monogram. The same attention extends to chains, zips, detachable soles and moulded footwear whose components determine how the product is handled and worn.
Material research connects this industrial language to recycled nylon, upcycled cotton, water-reduced dyeing and supply-chain traceability. Specialist partners are used as external research and development teams: Nike for performance systems, Mackintosh for bonded rainwear, Vibram for transformable soles and Moncler for technical down. Collaboration is therefore embedded in the way the brand develops products rather than treated only as promotion.
Recent events
Disclaimer
Creative timeline
Button TextFollowing the C Capital investment, 1017 ALYX 9SM announced plans to move its headquarters from Ferrara to Paris and reduce its dependence on wholesale. The strategy prioritised direct e-commerce, standalone boutiques and growth in footwear, jewellery and accessories while the collections adopted a quieter product language.
1017 ALYX 9SM worked with Avery Dennison, EVRYTHNG and OriginTrail on a digital identity system for garments in 2019. QR-linked records allowed customers to inspect supply-chain provenance, authenticity and material information, making traceability a product feature rather than a separate corporate report.
Kim Jones commissioned Matthew M. Williams to develop hardware for his first Dior Men collection. Williams adapted the ALYX Rollercoaster mechanism into a CD buckle used on Saddle bags, caps and tailoring, placing the independent label’s industrial fastening system inside a major Paris luxury house.
The company adopted the name 1017 ALYX 9SM in May 2018. The expanded identity combined Williams’s 17 October birth date, the original ALYX name and the address of the founding studio at 9 Saint Mark’s Place, giving the brand a coded industrial name ahead of its first Paris runway.
Alyx formally expanded into menswear in 2017 after testing the category through an earlier capsule commissioned by Hiroshi Fujiwara. The permanent programme carried hardware, tactical outerwear and modular product construction beyond the womenswear line and established the basis for a co-ed house structure.
Alyx was selected as a finalist for the 2016 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. The recognition placed the new label within an international luxury context shortly after its debut and helped distinguish it from Williams’s earlier music and streetwear projects.
Matthew M. Williams founded Alyx in 2015 with Jennifer Murray and Luca Benini. The partnership joined a New York studio and Californian cultural references to manufacturing and distribution in Ferrara, establishing a womenswear label built around Italian production, industrial hardware and subcultural product codes.
1017 ALYX 9SM divisions and related structures
The label is organised around a co-ed mainline and a smaller jersey programme rather than a large hierarchy of licensed diffusion brands.
Clothing lines
- Mainline
- co-ed ready-to-wear
- Founded through womenswear in 2015 and expanded into menswear from 2017, the mainline combines tailoring, technical outerwear, footwear, bags, jewellery and industrial hardware.
- Alyx Visual
- graphic jersey
- The smaller line concentrates on printed T-shirts and fleece developed with upcycled cotton and recycled synthetics, giving material trials a more accessible product format.
1017 ALYX 9SM collaborations
Williams uses specialist partners to develop technologies, constructions and product categories beyond the capacity of a single independent studio.
Performance and engineering
- Nike MMW
- training and footwear
- The continuing programme combines technical apparel with modular footwear, including detachable Vibram components, Air Force 1 adaptations and moulded training systems.
- Vibram
- transformable soles
- Removable crampon-style overshoes and specialist rubber units allow formal derbies and performance shoes to shift between urban and outdoor functions.
Luxury and specialist manufacture
- Dior Men
- hardware, 2018
- For Kim Jones’s first Dior Men collection, Williams adapted the ALYX buckle into a CD mechanism used across Saddle bags, caps and tailored accessories.
- Moncler Genius
- technical outerwear
- 6 Moncler 1017 ALYX 9SM combined garment-dyed down, regenerated nylon, bonded construction and custom metalwork across several seasonal projects.
- Mackintosh
- rainwear
- The multi-season collaboration applied the Scottish company’s rubberised construction to ALYX proportions, dyes and fastening systems.
- Audemars Piguet
- watches, 2023
- Minimal Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore models removed conventional indices and translated the label’s industrial restraint into precious-metal watchmaking.
- Spidi
- motorcycle clothing, 2016
- Crash-rated motorcycle garments retained certified protective systems while bringing their armour, speed and fitted leather structures into the fashion collection.
Cultural and wardrobe projects
- Hiroshi Fujiwara
- menswear capsule, 2016
- Fujiwara commissioned the first Alyx menswear pieces, providing an early test for the category before its formal introduction.
- Stüssy
- California wardrobe, 2020
- The capsule joined Stüssy’s skate history to Loro Piana California Cotton denim, recycled jersey and Williams’s controlled industrial detailing.

