Anthony Vaccarello

Anthony Vaccarello is a Belgian-Italian designer and the Creative Director of Saint Laurent, a position he has held since 2016. After studying sculpture at La Cambre and winning the prestigious Hyères Grand Prix, he gained experience at Fendi under Karl Lagerfeld and served as the Creative Director of Versus Versace. Since taking the helm at Saint Laurent, he has achieved both critical acclaim and substantial commercial success.

Vaccarello is recognised for his ability to modernise the storied house’s archives while maintaining its core identity. His tenure has been defined by a sharp, high-fashion energy that pays homage to the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent while introducing a contemporary, assertive aesthetic that resonates with a modern luxury market.

A rigorous approach to tailoring and a preference for steely sex appeal define the aesthetic direction. The work focuses on the systematic reinterpretation of classic house codes, most notably ‘Le Smoking’, using modern fabrics and asymmetrical cuts to update the silhouette. Draping is employed with precision to create forms that are sharp and often ephemeral, balancing a sense of exposure with strict construction.

The silhouette is characterised by long lines and a focus on the legs, often incorporating high-cut details and micro-lengths that project a confident, nighttime glamour. There is a persistent emphasis on ‘rigor’ over simple nostalgia, where the historical references are distilled into a contemporary, avant-garde design language. By maintaining a balance between commercial viability and personal creative expression, the work ensures that the brand’s heritage remains relevant within a fast-moving fashion landscape.