Overview
Revillon is a Paris fur and fashion house whose documented Revillon identity reaches the mid-nineteenth century. A predecessor business run by Louis-Lazare-François Givelet is recorded at 159 rue Saint-Honoré in 1832 and 1834. Later company histories pushed that lineage back to 1723. The Revillon name enters the surviving commercial record through the Revillon–Jancke trade style by 1853, with Louis-Victor Révillon established as a merchant furrier at 81 rue de Rivoli by 1857. Revillon Frères was publicly in use by 1876. During the following decades the house built an international system linking Paris workshops and retail to buying offices, cold storage, wholesale operations and fur-trading networks across Europe, North America and Eurasia. By the 1893 Chicago exhibition, Revillon was presenting complete garments as exclusive house models; catalogues, museum-held garments and elaborate exhibition displays trace its development into a fashion author alongside its role as a fur merchant.
The twentieth century expanded that identity through atelier craft, image-making and specialist collaborations. Paul Larisch served as chef des ateliers before the First World War. In 1920–21 Revillon sponsored Robert J. Flaherty’s northern expedition and later used resulting photographs in corporate portfolios, tying the company’s Canadian trading network to an ambitious visual campaign with a colonial commercial context that remains inseparable from the project. Revillon participated in Le Théâtre de la Mode in 1945, contributed specialist fur work to a Balenciaga coat for Autumn–Winter 1946–47, and staged L’Art et la Fourrure in its Paris salons in 1954 under Jean Carlu’s artistic direction. Fernando Sánchez became the first strongly documented sustained individual designer for the house from the early 1960s, working across New York and Paris. By 1973 Revillon was using a multi-designer model that assigned different parts of its offer to Sánchez, Bill Blass and Adolfo; later designer-labelled fur collections included Bill Blass, Valentino Garavani and Carolina Herrera.
Corporate control became increasingly separate from design authorship during the late twentieth century. Cora took control in 1982, Revillon’s long fur-salon relationship with Saks Fifth Avenue ended in 1996, and Cora sold the business to Fibalko SA in 1999. Fibalko appointed Rick Owens creative director in March 2003, launching a genuine fashion revival that produced runway collections and commercially delivered garments; Owens later also held a production licence. Yves Salomon acquired Revillon’s fur and ready-to-wear rights in December 2006 and subsequently appointed Peter Dundas and Andrew Heather, with an in-house studio interval between them. Heather’s Spring–Summer 2013 collection, presented in Paris on 30 September 2012, is the latest securely documented Revillon fashion collection. A 2016 business profile described the house as dormant. Yves Salomon SAS continues to hold checked fashion-related Revillon trademark rights, with no current designer or seasonal fashion activity established at the 2026 cutoff.
Philosophy
Revillon’s design history begins with fur as both material and system. The house’s nineteenth- and early-twentieth-century scale connected the acquisition of pelts to sorting, preparation, cold storage, cutting, sewing and final presentation in Paris. That vertical structure gave its fashion a close relationship to the physical properties of fur: weight, density, direction of pile, colour, warmth and the technical demands of joining skins into a controlled surface. Surviving evening wraps, coats, jackets and accessories show a practice capable of moving from specialist fur work into complete fashion garments without abandoning the knowledge of the material that had built the business.
Presentation became another recurring part of the house language. Revillon used exhibition architecture, mannequins, catalogues, illustration, photography and salon events to turn specialist craft into a public image. The 1911 Turin display placed contemporary fur garments inside a theatrical diorama; the 1920s portfolios joined fashion promotion to art printing and expedition photography; L’Art et la Fourrure in 1954 brought fur preparation, coat construction, sculpture, film, music and dance into the same salon environment. These projects framed technical labour as spectacle and gave Revillon an image culture broader than a conventional seasonal runway calendar.
Individual designers repeatedly reinterpreted that material inheritance. Fernando Sánchez used colour, length and dramatic outerwear to give Revillon a more recognisable authorial voice in the 1960s and 1970s. Guest designers in the 1970s and 1980s brought their own luxury codes to the house’s fur expertise. Rick Owens pushed the material towards raw-edged, elongated and architectonic forms during the 2003–06 revival; Peter Dundas approached the label through a more overtly glamorous ready-to-wear vocabulary; Andrew Heather returned attention to volume, surface and specialised construction in 2012. Across these shifts, Revillon’s most durable idea remained the transformation of technically demanding fur into fashion with a pronounced silhouette and an equally considered public image.
Timeline
Disclaimer
Creative timeline
Button TextYves Salomon appointed Andrew Heather creative director of Revillon on 26 September 2011. His tenure produced three documented collections and accompanied a renewed Paris retail push.
Revillon had ended Peter Dundas’s contract by early March 2010 and was seeking a successor. The exact effective termination date has not been established.
Yves Salomon appointed Peter Dundas creative director of Revillon in January 2008. He developed the house as a fur-led ready-to-wear label and presented documented collections during the following year.
Rick Owens’s Revillon tenure ended when the fur and ready-to-wear activity passed from Fibalko to Yves Salomon in December 2006. No later Revillon collection is attributed to him.
During the Fibalko period, Rick Owens obtained a production licence for Revillon while Fibalko retained ownership. The arrangement expanded his responsibility from creative direction into the operating delivery of the revived fashion line.
Fibalko appointed Rick Owens creative director of Revillon on 7 March 2003. His tenure restored a sustained designer-led fashion activity with runway collections and commercially delivered garments.
Carolina Herrera designed a Revillon fur project presented in May 1985. The engagement was a guest authorship relationship and occurred alongside a separate Fernando Sánchez Revillon presentation in the same week.
Fernando Sánchez’s second documented Revillon design period ended in 1985. No later Revillon collection attribution to Sánchez has been verified.
Fernando Sánchez returned to Revillon for a second documented design period in 1984–85. The renewed engagement culminated in a Revillon fur runway in May 1985.
Valentino Garavani designed a Revillon fur project presented in May 1981. The engagement supports guest collection authorship and does not establish creative control over Revillon’s wider house, ateliers or product divisions.
Fernando Sánchez’s first sustained Revillon period ended around 1973 as he established his independent company. A further Revillon runway is documented in 1976, so the end of continuous employment does not erase later house work.
Bill Blass was credited with Revillon’s American luxury ready-to-wear portion in November 1973 and continued the relationship through a documented Revillon fur runway in June 1974. His remit was a guest design engagement, not house-wide direction.
Fernando Sánchez became Revillon’s in-house designer in the early 1960s, creating furs and outerwear across New York and Paris. He is the first strongly documented sustained individual designer in the house’s postwar history.
Revillon opened L’Art et la Fourrure in its Paris salons on 18 May 1954 under Jean Carlu’s artistic direction. The exhibition combined fur craft, sculpture, film, choreography, music, scenography and technical demonstration.
Revillon sponsored Robert J. Flaherty’s 1920–21 expedition through its northern post network, enabling the work that became Nanook of the North. Selected expedition photographs later entered Revillon promotional portfolios.
Later trade-biographical material reports that Paul Larisch left France at the beginning of the First World War, ending his Revillon atelier tenure. The circumstance is less securely documented than his position itself and remains qualified.
Paul Larisch served as chef des ateliers at Revillon Frères in Paris, holding senior technical authority within the fur workshops and training younger practitioners. The surviving evidence supports workshop leadership and does not assign him sole authorship of the house’s garments.
From the turn of the century to the First World War, Revillon expanded Montreal and Edmonton hubs, northern trading posts and Eurasian buying operations. Léon Revillon was one of the principal family organisers of the international structure supporting the Paris house.
A Paris commercial directory documents a joint Revillon trade name by 1853, followed by secure notarial evidence for Louis-Victor Révillon as a merchant furrier at 81 rue de Rivoli in 1857. This is the defensible institutional foundation point for the Revillon-named house.
Revillon divisions and related structures
Revillon developed through a series of product divisions, retail structures and legally distinct operations built around the fur trade. Their scope changed repeatedly as ownership and distribution shifted.
Fashion and fur
- Haute fourrure and fur fashion
- Core specialist practice
- Made-up furs, complete coats, evening wraps and specialist fur construction formed the house’s central fashion activity from the nineteenth century through its later designer-led revivals.
- Ready-to-wear
- Expanded fashion category
- Ready-to-wear became an explicit part of Revillon’s later operating structure and was included in the fur and ready-to-wear rights acquired by Yves Salomon in 2006. The category supported the Rick Owens, Peter Dundas, studio and Andrew Heather revival periods.
- Mlle. Revillon
- New York youth-oriented retail line
- Documented at Saks Fifth Avenue by 1963–64, Mlle. Revillon offered sheared-lamb and reversible coats, sports jackets and other younger-positioned fur fashion. Its exact launch date and legal structure remain unspecified in the surviving record.
Fragrance and licensed product
- Parfums Revillon
- Fragrance division
- Revillon maintained a substantial perfume business during the twentieth century. Société des Parfums Revillon acquired F. Millot during the 1960s, and fragrance rights later followed a legal and licensing history distinct from the house’s fur and ready-to-wear activity.
Retail and international operations
- International fur-trading and retail network
- Historic sourcing, wholesale and retail system
- Paris workshops and shops were connected to London, New York, Montreal, Edmonton, Moscow and a wider network of buying offices, warehouses, cold storage and northern trading posts. These operations supplied the material infrastructure behind Revillon’s fashion business.
- Revillon at Saks Fifth Avenue
- United States fur-salon network
- Revillon operated fur retail within Saks Fifth Avenue from at least the mid-1960s and eventually leased salon space across 32 stores. The arrangement ended on 1 May 1996, marking a major contraction of Revillon-controlled American distribution.
Revillon collaborations
Revillon’s collaborations grew from its specialist fur knowledge, international image-making and periodic use of outside designers. Several projects functioned as cultural commissions or garment-level partnerships; later collaborations centred on designer-attributed fur collections.
Cultural and image projects
- Robert J. Flaherty
- Sponsored expedition, film and photographic project, 1920–24
- Revillon financed and supported Flaherty’s 1920–21 northern expedition from its Canadian trading network. The work produced the material associated with Nanook of the North and a group of photographs later selected for Revillon promotional portfolios. The project joined corporate image-making to the company’s commercial presence in Inuit territories.
- Jean Carlu — L’Art et la Fourrure
- Artistic direction and exhibition design, 1954
- Carlu directed the artistic presentation of Revillon’s L’Art et la Fourrure exhibition and designed its poster. The salon event combined fur-making demonstrations with sculpture, film, music, dance, photography and theatrical staging.
Fashion collaborations and guest design
- Balenciaga
- Specialist fur collaboration, Autumn–Winter 1946–47
- A surviving Balenciaga coat carries both Balenciaga and Revillon labels and is jointly attributed by Palais Galliera, documenting Revillon’s specialist fur contribution to a couture garment.
- Bill Blass
- American ready-to-wear and fur guest design, 1973–74
- Blass was credited with the American luxury ready-to-wear portion of Revillon’s 1973 multi-designer presentation and designed the documented Fall 1974 Revillon fur runway.
- Adolfo
- Boutique guest design, 1973
- Adolfo was credited with boutique models in Revillon’s November 1973 multi-designer presentation, one part of a structure that distributed authorship across separate product areas.
- Egon von Fürstenberg
- Revillon-associated presentation, 1980
- Revillon hosted or presented an Egon von Fürstenberg collection at Dorian Gray in Frankfurt Airport in April 1980. The surviving invitation establishes the association and event; the precise manufacturing or contractual structure is unspecified.
- Valentino Garavani
- Guest fur collection, 1981
- Garavani designed the documented Revillon Fall 1981 fur runway, bringing Valentino’s couture-informed glamour to a specialist Revillon collection without assuming house-wide creative direction.
- Carolina Herrera
- Guest fur collection, 1985
- Herrera designed a Revillon fur runway presented in May 1985, one of two separately attributed Revillon designer shows staged within days of each other that season.
