
Overview
Mulberry was founded in Somerset in 1971 by Roger Saul with £500 in family capital and the practical support of Joan Saul, who became company secretary and organised early production. Roger Saul and Monty Cole first made belts, snakeskin chokers and small leather accessories at home, while Rosemary Saul drew the tree mark. Centralised work in Chilcompton followed in 1973, the business incorporated in 1974, and the 1975 Hunting, Shooting, Fishing collection joined field-sport utility, saddlery leather and clothing in the identity later known as Le Style Anglais.
Leather goods became the most stable part of the house, but their authorship changed repeatedly. Scott Henshall led a brief turn-of-the-century reset; Nicholas Knightly designed the Bayswater and Roxanne; Stuart Vevers expanded the accessories-led fashion system; Emma Hill connected bags, ready-to-wear and theatrical London shows; and Johnny Coca directed product, clothing and image from 2015 to 2020. Unnamed studios sustained the house between several of these appointments, and the post-2020 period returned the commercial centre to leather goods, guest collaborations and circular services.
Mulberry remains a British luxury house with Somerset manufacturing at its core and a wider international supply chain around it. The current structure divides authority: the internal Creative Studio directs leather goods, product and brand image, while Christopher Kane has led women’s ready-to-wear since March 2026. His first collection was still future at the research cutoff, so the appointment records a planned return to seasonal runway womenswear without placing the whole house under his direction.
Philosophy
Mulberry’s design language begins with useful objects. Field bags, saddlery straps, brass closures, doctor’s-bag frames and travel luggage established forms expected to carry weight, withstand weather and improve through use. Natural and vegetable-tanned leathers, Congo embossing, Scotchgrain, tartan linings and the Postman’s Lock turned construction and surface into recognisable house codes without making the logo the only point of identification.
Later designers treated that archive as working material. Knightly refined rural utility into the structured Bayswater and hardware-heavy Roxanne; Vevers shifted scale, colour and styling around an expanding bag wardrobe; Hill placed leather goods inside eccentric, highly staged British narratives; and Coca reduced and re-engineered typography, colour and hardware through the Rider’s Lock. Across these changes, ready-to-wear has worked most convincingly when proportion, texture and outerwear sharpened the presence of the bags instead of competing with them.
The current studio model couples archive revision with repair, resale, lower-impact materials and Somerset craft. Collaborations have introduced patchwork, upcycling, whipstitching, musical subcultures and altered bag architecture within bounded projects, while the main line retains responsibility for continuity. Kane’s womenswear remit adds a separate runway language to that product system; the relationship between the two parts should be judged from completed collections, not presumed from the appointment.
Timeline
Disclaimer
Creative timeline
Button TextCarries Mulberry's planned runway return into the Spring/Summer 2027 London Fashion Week context under Christopher Kane.
Mulberry appointed Christopher Kane Creative Director of Women’s Ready-to-Wear on 26 March 2026. The limited remit restores seasonal womenswear and runway authorship while leaving leather goods and the wider product and image system under the internal Creative Studio.
The Back to the Mulberry Spirit reorganisation formally established a Creative Studio in January 2025. Henrietta Gallina was promoted to Creative Studio Director and Azalee Beaux to Director of Product, making the internal division of image and product leadership visible without assigning either person sole authorship of every bag.
Mulberry marked its fiftieth anniversary with guest projects by Priya Ahluwalia, Richard Malone and Nicholas Daley, while Alexa Chung produced a separate 2021 collaboration. The series established a bounded way for outside designers to alter archive bags and materials without assuming continuous authority over the main line.
After Coca’s departure, Mulberry did not appoint an overall successor and allowed the Onward ready-to-wear and footwear licence to end with the 2020 cycle. The internal studio concentrated on leather goods, image, circular services and bounded guest projects, while later apparel appeared through capsules rather than an uninterrupted seasonal line.
Mulberry announced Coca’s departure on 17 March 2020, and his operational tenure ended on 31 March. Work completed before he left was delivered later, but the disputed convention around Autumn/Winter 2020 and Spring/Summer 2021 prevents the final collection from being collapsed into this structural departure record.
Johnny Coca assumed operational authority on 8 July 2015 with responsibility for leather goods, ready-to-wear, footwear, packaging and global image. His tenure reworked the wordmark, established Mulberry Green and the Rider’s Lock, and shifted later product development towards circular materials and services.
Hill’s resignation was announced on 10 June 2013 after disagreement over the company’s pricing direction. Spring/Summer 2014, shown on 15 September, was her final designed collection and marks the last material boundary of her authorship.
Emma Hill began as Mulberry creative director in February 2008 after her appointment was announced in December 2007. Her house-wide authority joined studio-designed leather goods, ready-to-wear, campaigns, retail and theatrical London shows in one recurring image system.
Mulberry announced Vevers’s departure for Loewe on 26 July 2007. The move ended his employed tenure while leaving the accessories-led system and campaign visibility established during his three years at the house.
Stuart Vevers began as Mulberry design director on 1 December 2004, with a practical remit extending across accessories, ready-to-wear and image. He expanded inherited Knightly products, developed his own bag families and gave the house a coherent international fashion position; later biographies often call the role Creative Director.
Knightly resigned in August 2004 to join Louis Vuitton. Product delivery continued beyond a resignation date, but the final fully authored Mulberry season is not secure enough to extend his tenure by assumption.
Nicholas Knightly joined Mulberry in late 2002 as chief designer or design director and rebuilt the offer around leather-goods architecture. He originated the Bayswater in 2003 and the Roxanne in 2004, correcting later accounts that assign both products to Stuart Vevers.
Roger Saul was removed from operational and creative control in November 2002 during the change in shareholder and board authority. His later Life President title was ceremonial, so post-2002 products and collections must not be assigned to his authorship.
Luella Bartley and external collaborator Stuart Vevers developed a Mulberry leather bag for Bartley’s Autumn/Winter 2002 runway. Its reception after Gisele Bündchen carried it demonstrated the commercial force of a contemporary guest intervention before Vevers joined Mulberry as an employee.
Henshall left Mulberry in 2001 to concentrate on his own work. Because the final designed season is not securely documented, the departure is recorded at year level and later output is not attributed to him by production-calendar inference.
Mulberry appointed Scott Henshall to a house-wide creative role in 2000, covering fashion, accessories, image and retail. His brief replaced the established country-house register with a younger celebrity-facing position, but the exact effective date and final authored season remain unresolved.
MULBERRY divisions and related structures
Mulberry has expanded and contracted its categories several times while keeping leather goods at the centre of the house.
Fashion and product categories
- Women’s ready-to-wear
- Seasonal category with interrupted continuity
- Introduced in 1978, later directed in-house and produced under licence from 2016 to 2020, the category returned through limited apparel before Christopher Kane was appointed to restore seasonal womenswear in 2026.
- Men’s ready-to-wear
- Historical clothing category
- Introduced in 1985 and revisited under later directors, menswear lacks evidence of uninterrupted current seasonal production.
- Footwear and eyewear
- Licensed and supporting categories
- Footwear formed part of the ready-to-wear licence through 2020, while eyewear has operated through specialist licensing rather than an autonomous fashion label.
Home and circular services
- Mulberry Home
- Historical interiors category
- Launched in 1991 as the lifestyle offer expanded, though its long-term continuity remains less fully documented than the leather-goods business.
- Made to Last and Mulberry Exchange
- Repair, resale and circularity system
- Developed from the 2020 exhibition and exchange initiative into services for repair, trade-in and recirculation of existing Mulberry bags.
MULBERRY collaborations
Collaborations have periodically opened the house’s leather archive to designers whose work sits outside the permanent studio structure.
Runway and product interventions
- Luella Bartley and Stuart Vevers
- Autumn/Winter 2002 leather-goods collaboration
- The Mulberry Luella bag combined heavy straps, equestrian hardware and thick leather before press use of Gisele Bündchen’s name fixed the product’s better-known title.
- Giles Deacon
- Spring/Summer 2007 runway collaboration
- Mulberry for Giles carried the house’s leather construction into Deacon’s collection during Stuart Vevers’s design-director tenure.
- Cara Delevingne
- 2014 studio-period capsule
- The named bag and accessory project gave the post-Hill studio a visible collaboration, although the internal division of design authorship remains unresolved.
Studio-led guest projects
- Mulberry Editions 2021
- Fiftieth-anniversary guest series
- Priya Ahluwalia, Richard Malone and Nicholas Daley reworked the Portobello, Bayswater, Darley and Antony through repurposed materials, exposed construction, primary colour and music-derived craft.
- Alexa Chung
- 2021 leather-goods collaboration
- Chung became an active collaborator eleven years after inspiring the name of the original studio-designed Alexa, producing the Big Guy and Little Guy in satchel-derived forms.
- Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt
- 2023 upcycled craft collaboration
- Twenty-seven one-off bags used Exchange stock, leather bows and hand-applied studs, with Mulberry artisans also contributing leather techniques to the Stefan Cooke runway.
- Paul Smith
- 2023 Antony collaboration
- A ten-piece capsule rebuilt the messenger family through striped webbing, colour blocking and UK manufacture in Mulberry’s Somerset factories.
- Rejina Pyo
- 2024 multi-category collaboration
- The project extended beyond a simple colour update into bags, clothing and accessories shaped by Pyo’s controlled colour and everyday proportion.